All about using whole spices

Once you taste the difference, you won’t go back to readyground, says Ginny Grant.

Recipes often specify toasting your spices, but why is it necessary? And why is it better to toast and grind whole seeds than simply buy ground spices in the first place?

Toasting releases the essential oils in spices and often brings out their warm, earthy tones. Whole spices also have a longer shelf life than ground spices, which can quickly become dull and slightly musty-tasting. It pays to buy whole spices in small amounts from places where the turnover is high (I like to stock up at Indian spice shops).

To toast spices, heat a small frying pan (ideally a heavy-based one) over medium heat. Add the seeds in a single layer – you won’t need to add oil. Shake the pan so the spices don’t stick or burn (or stir with a wooden spoon if you find it easier).

Depending on the seeds, it will take anywhere from 30 seconds to a few minutes for them to become toasted. They’re ready when you can smell their fragrance and they have taken on some colour. Don’t let them become too brown, as this will make the flavour acrid and bitter. Remove from the heat immediately and transfer to a tray or bowl to cool.

Grind using a mortar and pestle or a spice grinder (if the pieces are large, you may want to sieve the spices after you’ve ground them).

Tempting though it is to toast a combination of spices together in a pan, try to avoid it as they will toast at different rates, so some spices will be burning while others will still require more toasting.

Next week: which spices to use for which purpose.