Paradise’s overlooked capital
Tahiti is often viewed merely as a gateway to the surrounding picture-perfect islands, but in Papeete you’ll find surprises around every corner. Katrina Lobley reports.
Tahiti, French Polynesia’s largest island, is often viewed merely as a gateway to the French overseas territory’s picture-perfect islands such as Mo’orea or Bora Bora.
We get it – your ship’s cabin or that overwater bungalow is calling – but don’t be in such a rush to say au revoir to this lively spot. In Papeete, the capital, you’ll find surprises around every corner.
Papeete is an open-air art gallery
The biggest one is that the city (with a population of 27,000 people) is also an open-air art gallery.
Thanks to the Ono’u public art festival that launched in 2014, mesmerising murals have transformed walls throughout the city. One of the most beloved works is The Vahine in a Red Tifaifai, a collaboration between French artist Seth and local artist HTJ. This Rue Edouard Ahnne artwork shows a sleeping Tahitian girl curled up on a red and white quilt.
Picnic at the market
Pull a few Pacific francs from an ATM outside the open-air municipal market that sprawls over an entire block of downtown Papeete.
A market has stood on this spot since 1848. Vendors sell everything from fragrant tiare flowers (Tahitian gardenias) and monoi (coconut oil infused with tiare) to vanilla pods, fish, guava pies, lemon cakes, eclairs and baguettes.
Cruise around town
How good is it when a cruise terminal is located right in the centre of a magnifique city? That’s the case with Papeete.
With so much to see and do around the port (such as visiting the market mentioned above), maximise the opportunity to sightsee by checking in, offloading your luggage and heading straight out again .
Rush hour in paradise
Near La Mennais College, whistle-tooting municipal police conduct a cacophonous symphony of cars and scooters.
Streets quieten considerably, though, as soon as school’s in. Remove yourself from the chaos by strolling the waterfront Pa’ofa’i Gardens.
Peep at the Presidential Palace
.The controversial two-storey residence, ordered by former five-time president Gaston Flosse, was inaugurated in 2000 and cost almost US$60 million (NZ$98.6m) to build. Nearby is a sprawling mural/ installation covering the length of a stone wall that honours Polynesian involvement in the resolution of both world wars.
Hotel sets the bar
The 200-room Hilton Hotel Tahiti will fasttrack you straight into holiday mode.
Splash down in the pool (Tahiti’s largest), flop into the serpentine in-pool loungers or do some lazy pre or post-breakfast laps while admiring distant Moorea.
The hotel channels a modern Polynesian vibe – from the open-air, high-ceilinged lobby to the dramatic nature motifs popping in the neutral-toned guest rooms.
Take a load off
After pounding the steamy rues and avenues, find respite and an oasis of calm in the almost secret gardens behind the French Polynesia Assembly. The gardens include a fish-filled pool where Queen Pomare IV once bathed,a botanical trail lush with Tahitian chestnuts, island walnut, beach gardenia, swamp taro and more.
Chase waterfalls
Want to blow off the big smoke and immerse yourself in Tahiti’s lush and rugged interior? Squeeze in a half-day tour that leads you out of town to the Tahara’a lookout before diving into the jungle-clad Papeno’o Valley to chase waterfalls.
One more thing
Surfing returns for the Paris 2024 Games, in Tahiti. Over four days during a 10-day window (July 27-August 8), global attention will be on Teahupo’o, a village 70 kilometres from Papeete that’s home to one of the world’s most famous waves.
– traveller.com.au The writer visited Papeete as a guest of Norwegian Cruise Line. See:ncl.com