Sunday Star-Times

BY THE SEASONS:

- LAURA FAIRE

Why duck makes a good Valentines dinner.

AT THIS time of year, things are touch and go in my summer garden, which is keeping me excited. I’m determined that this year I might get it right. Sadly, I got little right the first year. One of the plants I have issues with is the grapevine. The first time I put one in I took it under advisement to plant an ‘‘Albany Surprise’’, assured that I couldn’t kill it. The surprise was that six months later it was dead. Next was a grapevine in a pot as suggested by Bob Flowerdew’s book The Gourmet

Gardener. Good, but the harvest was meager. Last year, still in its pot, the crop looked better but was aced by a rogue chook. This year, finally planted, the leader taking off along the back wall, grapes hung heavy at holiday time. I planned my Valentines Day dinner accordingl­y.

Knowing my vine should be lovely and ripe, in advance, using store-bought grapes, I wrote, tested, photograph­ed and enjoyed this recipe for two. It is a sophistica­ted meal; the duck is rich and the grapes are sweet. As a self-saucing recipe, it hits the mark for my husband who loves all meals that come with gravy. There is no need for fussing with the rest of the meal as the braise has so much flavour. A polenta quickly made or mashed potatoes and a few green beans all easily thrown together. It’s also one of those excellent dishes that can be prepared in advance and thrown in the oven at the last minute. Alas my plan had a flaw. Yesterday, I fought a bird for the final grape, the rest devoured, grape-bunch skeletons the only evidence of their former success.

Perhaps this error is fitting for Valentines Day. The explanatio­n espoused by Wikipedia is that the day was invented by the medieval poet Chaucer in his epic poem

The Parliament of Fowls. Although the saint existed, in fact there is more than one St Valentine, Chaucer allegedly gave the day its romantic connotatio­n. I can only really guess that consumeris­m had a part to play when chocolate

Chaucer allegedly gave Valentines Day its romantic connotatio­n.

hearts, roses and gifts became a part of it. It seems far from the birds gathering to choose their mates. In search of chocolate hearts, I googled ‘‘how valentine was martyred’’ looking for a hint of bleeding heart. Christiani­ty.com is unsure which St Valentine is referred to and gave no answer. Therefore I see every reason why duck with grapes should be just as suitable as chocolate hearts.

‘‘If you fare in love as owls do in the light,’’ whether you’re up for the full seduction or sharing a meal together in front of the TV, a duck dinner should set the tone.

 ??  ?? The grape and good: This duck braise is a Valentines Day delight.
Photo: Michael Bradley/Fairfax NZ
The grape and good: This duck braise is a Valentines Day delight. Photo: Michael Bradley/Fairfax NZ
 ??  ??

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from New Zealand