Otago Daily Times

Pinot noirs, Hawke’s Bay reds across price points

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TWO very different categories covered today with a trio of Hawke’s Bay reds from the Trinity Hill stable followed by a trio of pinot noirs.

The former cover their three different price tiers.

The cheapest — sometimes even sub $20 on promo.

The midtier GG range, including their tilt at this Spanish variety.

Their top level is up there pricewise, but justifiabl­y so. With pinots we have one that fits the bill pricewise for weekday drinking (likely sub $25 on promo), and two

Marlboroug­h examples that, in a world of incessant price increases, seem to be holding the line.

2021 Trinity Hill Prison Block Gimblett Gravels cabernet sauvignon

Price: $120

Rating: Outstandin­g

Wonderful fragrant, a surge of blackcurra­nt, smoke, dusty gravels, crushed leaf perfume, draws you back for more, hints of cigar box too. The palate continues the theme, depth of flavour without heaviness. Blackcurra­nt & tomato leaf notes swell with the cassis fruit, tobacco, deceptive tannins and fresh acidity. Mouthwater­ing, gorgeous and huge potential.

www.trinityhil­l.com

2022 Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels tempranill­o

Price: $39.99 Rating: Excellent

Ripe fruits leap from the glass, a ‘come hither’ quality, schisty, oak scents, generosity. Again, bold red fruits, ripe yet not overtly sweet, tilled earth notes, baking spices, warmth yet with tangy refreshnes­s reminiscen­t of greengage plum. Rich and supple midpalate while that zesty finish keeps it fresh.

www.trinityhil­l.com

2022 Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay merlot Price: $24.99 Rating: Very good to excellent

Cassis, plum, cocoa powder, minerality. A mediumbodi­ed frame provides the platform for the sweet fruit & oak to shine, a touch of toasted coconut, developing a grapy aspect with aeration. Fruit to the fore here yet the tingly acidity keeps this lively & bright.

Well made and clearly meant to be enjoyed over the next year or two.

www.trinityhil­l.com

2022 Riverby Estate Single Vineyard Marlboroug­h pinot noir

Price: $28 Rating: Excellent

A subtle yet engaging fragrance leads, backed by red fruits, forest floor and herbs. Nicely mouthfilli­ng, riffing on those red fruits, earth, forest floor and spices, ripe yet dry. It’s pale colour deceives as there’s deceptive power here yet it’s all about balance and integratio­n with a lovely, long, long engaging close. Opens up nicely with time, not at all forced but effortless.

www.riverbyest­ate.com

2022 Babydoll Central Otago pinot noir Price: $26.50 Rating: Very good to excellent

Sweet fruit takes centre stage, strawberry dusted with icing sugar, shifting to berryfruit­s and tar. Full in the mouth backed by chewy, almost grainy tannins, that backbone of sweet berryfruit and cherry melding with wild herb, adding an almondy bitterswee­t touch on the close. Savoury with time, very much showing its youthful side, bright, a nice choice with food.

www.babydollwi­nes.co.nz

2021 St Clair Pioneer Block 5 Bull Block pinot noir Price: $40 Rating: Excellent to outstandin­g

Leads with an earthy quality, leafy elements, loganberry, roast beetroot, swelling perfume, beguiling subtlety. The palate extends the leafy, herbal theme, an undercurre­nt of darker fruits and cherry, forest floor like earthiness appearing with a fresh, zesty finish. A delicious, almost lipsmackin­g aspect adds to the close.

Not ‘‘in your face’’, but superb balance.

www.saintclair.co.nz

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