The Star Malaysia

Secret lies in the source of the fire

Hawker’s noodles come with a smoky flavour

- By ARNOLD LOH arnold.loh@thestar.com.my

GEORGE TOWN: Wood has fuelled stoves for millennia before modern day options took over, but one hawker here still sticks with wood because she is certain it makes food taste better.

Teh Cheng Hoon, 70, has been selling what is commonly called “economy noodles” since she was 27.

It is just yellow noodles or rice vermicelli with bean sprouts, chilli sauce and gravy, which Teh sells for RM1.50 a plate and RM2 for a larger serving.

But hers is different; an appetising, smoky aroma lingers in the aftertaste of every mouthful.

Many of her customers like to dine-in too, eating at tables near her stall for a whiff of the wood smoke pervading the air.

“I tell you, food tastes better when cooked over wood fires. This was how we did it in the old days,” Teh said merrily at her stall in Taman Free School market.

Taman Free School is a working class housing estate of mainly walk-up flats built in the early 70s, and Teh said she was among the pioneer hawkers, serving out of the same spot for 43 years.

She starts every business day with a crate full of firewood, courtesy of her husband.

“My husband works in a wood pallet factory, so I have an unlimited supply of scrap wood. We use wood fires at home too,” she said.

Teh said she tried using a gas stove about 30 years ago and hated it.

“It was too hot and hard to control the heat. My bee hoon went all dry and sticky.

“Wood fire is not as hot. When I make a large flame, the wok heats up evenly and the food won’t get overcooked,” she said.

Teh said she would use firewood as long as her husband continues to supply her with it.

“Someday he will have to retire and then maybe I won’t have enough firewood anymore.

“I have many long-time customers. Some are children who grew up and bring their children to eat my noodles.

“I hope to use firewood for as long as I can,” she said.

 ?? — CHAN BOON KAI/The Star ?? In her neck of the woods: Teh, cooking in Taman Free School in Penang, believes that wood fire makes her food taste better.
— CHAN BOON KAI/The Star In her neck of the woods: Teh, cooking in Taman Free School in Penang, believes that wood fire makes her food taste better.

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