Robb Report (Malaysia)

Food For Thought

Define: food’s private dining concept offers bespoke menus that reinterpre­t fine cuisine.

- Photos LAW SOO PHYE

Define: food’s private dining and bespoke menus become the culinary playground for the imaginativ­e chef Malcolm Goh, who merges ingredient­s with panache for memorable meals.

A t newly launched Define: food – so named to describe its honest approach to c uisine - i n M idValley City, the idea of a customised dinner menu is taken to new heights by its inventive chef Malcolm Goh. He honed his culinary skills at five-star hotel restaurant­s before taking on a series of cooking competitio­ns including a double-medal winning effort at the Culinary Olympics in Germany. He has also appared on Asian Food Channel’s Back to The Streets and Great Dinners of The World.

The whiz chef approaches his bespoke menus with a blend of imaginatio­n and execution before serving them on stone plateware, custom-made at an atelier in Malacca. “Every step in cooking is quite straightfo­rward – the challenge is when you have to coordinate 47 steps in order to produce one perfect dish,” he says. Goh’s self-explanator­y Tribute to our Ocean bespoke menu (RM300 per person) begins with an amusebouch­e of Fin de Claire oysters served on a bed of wood and dry ice. The combinatio­n of basil jello and hot sauce melds into the raw taste of sea and shell – with a subtle aftertaste of tomato extract. A first entree of Hokkaido scallop with sambal puree, crispy kalian floss and clam gel is a medley of tastes and textures.

The second entree, an air-flown Brittany blue lobster har kaw and c law w ith squid ink puff sago, offers a similarly Europeanme­ets-asian twist. Served with a generous helping of bisque, this dish confers freshness of ingredient­s in every bite.

The plat principle consists of Ike Jime Grouper – a Japanese-style of ensuring freshness in the fish’s preparatio­n – together with umami beurre blanc, vegetables and a pomme souffle of Jerusalem artichokes. The tender, succulent fish contrasts well with juicy, crunchy carrots caramelise­d at its tips. A dessert of chocolate souffle offers intriguing hints of Maldon sea salt and a surprising side of black pepper-accented strawberry sorbet. Goh’s bespoke menus are available on request. www.facebook.com/define.food Ž

The tender, succulent fish contrasts well with juicy, crunchy carrots caramelise­d at its tips.

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