Cool green haven of Long Pasia

The remote village is remarkable for its pristine surroundings in the hinterlands of Sabah, writes

Bulbophyllum

virescens in the Long Pasia Kerangas forest.

This special species of orchid is only found in certain parts of Malaysia, the Moluccas and

Sumatra.

IF you are an avid jungle trekker looking for a terrain to conquer in Sabah, you may have heard of Danum Valley, Maliau Basin or even Tabin Wildlife Reserve. But mention Long Pasia, chances are not many people have heard of it — sometimes, not even the Sabahans.

Situated at the far end of the Sipitang district just before the Sarawak border, Long Pasia which means “mouth of the red river” is part of the opulent tropical rainforest that lies within the Heart of Borneo. It is part of the Bornean island that straddles the borders of Brunei, Indonesia and Malaysia.

Home of the Lundayeh and Lun Bawang tribes, Long Pasia is seven hours’ drive south of Kota Kinabalu and four hours away from Sipitang township.

From the 1970s to early ‘80s, Long Pasia used to be a logging epicentre. Even today, as the 4WD vehicle I am riding on dashes across the dusty, gravelly road leading to Long Mio, there are still huge trucks trundling past, in and out, transporting neatly stacked logs. One can only hope that the logging activity is controlled to preserve the pristine quality of Long Pasia. We often don’t know what we’ve got

till it’s gone.

A GEM IN THE HEART OF BORNEO

Long Pasia has one of the most biologically diverse ecosystems in the world. It is one of the only remaining places in Southeast Asia where the tropical rainforest is conserved on a grand scale. On its land, thousands of animals and plant species coexist harmoniously — creating a haven for conservationists, researchers and attracting many foreign eco-tourists and exchange students.

As we arrive at the assigned homestay late in the afternoon, the family of the village headman, Mudin Sia cordially welcomes us. After coffee and homemade cakes, village guide Lait takes us on a tour around the village.

Located at about 1, 000 metres above sea level, the climate in Long Pasia is cool and refreshing. Being far from the city also does Long Pasia a lot of good. Unlike in most parts of the world, 21st century Long Pasia remains an utopian village with impeccably pristine surroundings, unpolluted air, close-knit community and little children playing outside just like old times. Most houses in Long Pasia also rely on solar-powered electricity, something that modern cities are still attempting to emulate.

DON’T GO CHASING WATERFALLS... The next day, together with Lait and a group of other visitors and porters, we set out to explore Fefukan Waterfall, a newly-discovered spot in Long Pasia. According to Lait, the locals have a unique way of fishing: by knocking the fish unconscious as it swims upstream at the waterfall. Therefore, the name “Fefukan” comes from the fishing method of knocking the fish on the head — pepuk — the Lundayeh word for “hit”. Aside from being a famous fishing spot for the locals, Fefukan Waterfall is one of the widest waterfalls in Sabah.

The journey to Fefukan Waterfall begins with a two-hour rapid shooting along the Matang River to Lelawid. We stop by the riverbanks in between the ride to see the ancient burial site that has remnants of old jars and skeletal remains, and a monolithic carved rock called Batu Narit which is believed to have been carved by the ancient Lundayeh warrior, Upai Semaring.

From Lelawid, the journey is followed by five to six hours of trekking through a raw and dense montane forest. The terrain leading to Fefukan Waterfall is uneven and blanketed with dry leaves and huge tree A logging truck wheeling past the dusty Long Pasia road.

Fefukan Waterfall, one of Long Pasia’s many icy cold waterfalls.