Text Yelena Koemetz photo Zhenis Yskabai
Polo is a very popular game played in more than 80 countries, including Kazakhstan. But not many people know that this equestrian sport was introduced to the world by the nomads of Central Asia.
While researching historical records, Kazakhstani ethnographers have come across many references to an ancient game played by nomads called shogen (or shogan) whose rules and style conform to the game we know today as polo, a team sport played on horseback with a ball and a long-handled wooden mallet. The Turkic text of Kutadgu Bilik (Blessed Knowledge) by Zhussup Balasaguni and Divani Lugat At-turk, the first dictionary of the Turkic language, by Makhmud Kashgari, both state that our ancestors played this game.
For many years the ethnographer Kaliolla Akhmatzhan has studied the subject of military art and the combat traditions of the Kazakh people. He states that the words shokpar (the Turkish word for a wooden stick) and shogen have common roots and originate from the word sok, or sogu (to beat or hit). The techniques of the game called shogen required nomadic players to practice the techniques that they would also use in combat, learning to neutralise their opponents by applying blows with a stick to the shoulder, elbow or knee.
Later, the runaway offspring of Tamerlane brought the game to India. When the English military arrived at the great Mughal Empire they fell in love with what they called ‘hockey on horseback’ and took it back to England. They named this game pulu after the ancient Indian world meaning ‘lumber’.
Polo quickly conquered Europe,
America and spread through the rest of the world. The game was considered the preserve of aristocrats, with their expensive, well-groomed horses, snowwhite clothes and harnesses polished until they shone. The wealthy and political classes would meet at polo matches to resolve important issues in a relaxed environment. “A polo handicap is a person’s ticket to the world”, said one of its admirers, Sir Winston Churchill.
But today polo is not only the privilege of
rich people. Professional players from all over the world fight for the honour of prestigious clubs in both Europe and America. All are equal in a gentleman’s game.
The idea of reviving the game and realising its potential in Kazakhstan comes from Umirzak Shukeyev, the chairman of the Board of Directors of JSC National Welfare Fund Samruk-kazyna. He initiated the foundation of the Polo Federation of Kazakhstan. In 2014 it was headed by Asylzhan Mamytbekov. After two years of hard work the Federation was recognised by the National Olympic Committee and became a fully fledged member of the International Polo Federation. During this time six regional Polo Federations were established: in South Kazakhstan, Zhambyl, Almaty, Akmola, the Karaganda Oblast and Astana. New clubs were also founded: the Almaty Polo Club, Astana Polo Club and Aulieata.
A special breed of horses is needed to play this game. Polo ponies need to be fast, manoeuverable and highly trained. The Kazakhstani Polo Federation decided to use horses with Kazakh breeding, and here they have certainly got their money’s worth as the horses from the Kostanai stud farm are strong, have great endurance and exactly the right temperament for the sport. They are also about one twentieth of the price of their European counterparts. Today the stables of the various Kazakhstani polo clubs are home to 80 trained horses.
The Kazakhstani polo players, who number over 60, are the best horsemen in the country with numerous titles won from tournaments of the national equestrian game of kokpar. Many of them were trained to play polo in Moscow and Buenos Aires. It is no surprise that Argentina was selected as a training ground as polo is a national sport in this country, where there are over 300 clubs and 3,000 playing fields. Tournaments take place from November to May and polo fans come from all over the world to watch.
Kazakhstani players regularly take part in Republican and international competitions. Last January the Almaty Polo Club won first place at an amateur tournament in Argentina.
“My two brothers and I have been engaged in equestrian sports since childhood and recently we were seduced by polo. Now we can’t live without it”, says the captain of the Almaty Polo Club, Kuanysh Mussabekov. “I was surprised to discover that in
Argentina everyone plays polo: children, parents, grandmothers and grandfathers. I want polo to develop in Kazakhstan in the same way, as we have the land, fields, beautiful horses and skills in the saddle we have inherited from our ancestors.
“The first Children’s Polo Academy opened recently at the Almaty Horse & Polo Club at the Akbulak Health and Sports Centre.
Experienced instructors train children between 9 and 16 years of age. There were so many children who wanted to learn that we had to close the list for admission for a while.
“We train children free of charge and aim to instill in them a culture of communication with their horses”, says the vice-president of the Kazakhstan Polo Federation, Sarsen Kuranbek. “The game is entertaining and the horse is a peaceful animal. Parents notice how their children change as they develop a team spirit. This sport teaches discipline, to understand the language of the animals and to develop important qualities such as accuracy and responsibility. Children are taught to take care of their animals and clothing. In polo, horse and man should be as one and be immaculately turned out.”
Talking about the future of polo in his country, Sarsen Kuranbek emphasised that more Kazakhstani residents are choosing a healthy lifestyle and a return to the traditions of their people.
“Polo is an open-air game: on grass, on snow, on sand. In the future, polo will not be just an amateur sport. This could be somebody’s opportunity to become a member of one of the best teams or the world’s most prestigious clubs. Private clubs in Europe have many sportsmen from India, Pakistan and Argentina. We can also train and sell our horses to provide another source of income. The demand already exists. The polo industry is well developed in Argentina, working in conjunction with leather and textile manufacturing, tourism and the arts. I am sure that if polo developed in Kazakhstan then tourism and national crafts would benefit as well. Our Kazakhstani land is rich in tradition and we should use it.”