The theatre of retail: Brown Thomas marks 175 years on top

Through changing fashions and new owners, store has always known how to put on a show

When Christian Dior visited Dublin in 1950 to open his boutique in Brown Thomas, a century after the store first opened, the French couturier was the talk of town.

His exciting “New Look” silhouette with its cinched waists, rounded shoulders and very full skirts was considered the height of chic couture.

And in a perfect twist of synchronicity, it was Carmel Snow from Dalkey, the pioneering editor-in-chief of the American edition of Harper’s Bazaar who was responsible for coining the phrase “the New Look” after she witnessed Dior’s iconic collection in Paris three years earlier.

Today, the Brown Thomas store on Grafton Street is rolling out its 175th birthday celebration – albeit on the opposite side of the street to where the enterprising Hugh Brown and James Thomas opened their general draper and haberdasher in 1849.

That iconic premises is now home to the Marks & Spencer store and for the last 29 years, Brown Thomas has been in its new home in the former Switzer’s store across the road, where hundreds of thousands of Irish children came annually to visit Santa Claus.

It is those festive pilgrimages and shopping expeditions to BTs that lots of families remember – from the excitement of buying the debs dresses, the wedding suits, the perfumes and aftershave for Valentine’s gifts, to the duvets and essentials for students heading off to college – all are etched on the memories of shoppers over the generations.

As the big 175 years celebrations roll out, there’s no getting away from the sense of retail history and the characters who have visited over the years, such as Elizabeth Hurley, Pamela Anderson and Robbie Williams, as well as singer Michael Buble – who brought the

pedestrian traffic to a halt in November 2011 as he serenaded the crowds on Grafton Street.

And then of course, down through the years, there were the famous Christmas windows that families travelled from all over the country to see. They enjoyed the series of vignettes and elaborate staging, complete with falling faux snow and live music.

Even the famous retailer Harry Selfridge – the main character on the TV show Mr Selfridge – brought his take on retail innovation and charm to Dublin in 1919. He opened a writing room, a portrait studio and entertainment for children, but he also introduced initiatives such as hosting beauty lectures.

More than a century later, beauty still works big-time and last month, Trinsaid: ny Woodall, the TV personality turned beauty entrepreneur, brought out the crowds in huge numbers as she shared her make-up and skincare tips, proving yet again that the theatre of retail has not waned and while prices are important, the “experiential” element remains key.

From drapery and haberdashery in its early years, the brand has embraced change, extended its offerings and its opening hours, acquired sister branches in Cork, Limerick, Galway and Dundrum, added online services and learnt celebrities never fail to bring out the crowds.

There’s been shoe designers such as Christian Louboutin and Manolo Blahnik, a retinue of supermodels, from Kate Moss to Helena Christensen, and endless stars from stage and screen.

The windows and displays in store never fail to intrigue, from Santa through to seasonal fashions. The celebrated Irish artist Norah McGuinness, known for her association with the modern movement in Ireland, designed the window displays for Brown Thomas spanning over 30 years from the 1930s.

When Princess Grace and Prince Rainier of Monaco paid a state visit to Ireland in 1961, Brown Thomas welcomed the royal couple for a photographic exhibition and the princess was presented with a Carrickmacross lace mantilla.

In 1971, Canadian retail magnate Galen Weston married Hilary Frayne, from Terenure, and bought an interest in Brown Thomas, which was then listed on the Irish Stock Exchange. In 1983, they bought the remainder of the share and the company became private again.

Brown Thomas acquired the Switzer Group from House of Fraser in April 1991 . This included the store on Grafton Street and its sister stores, Todd’s in Limerick, Cash’s in Cork and Moon’s in Galway. By 2000, all stores were rebranded as Brown Thomas.

Reflecting on the history of the store group, retail consultant Eddie Shanahan

“Every country and major city has an iconic store or several of them, and Brown Thomas is certainly Ireland’s iconic store group.

“It is an important asset in terms of tourism but also in terms of serving access for the local market to international fashion and lifestyle goods reflecting trends around the world.

“To its credit, in doing so, it hasn’t forgotten about Irish designers and has given them a significant platform in Create every summer. Driven by Shelly Corkery, it has made a major difference to the way Irish brands have to develop and learn the retail pathway.”

Brown Thomas and Arnotts were bought when the Selfridges Group was sold to the Central Group and Sigma Holdings in 2021.