Ham that’s a cut above

Food group seeks special protected status for Limerick delicacy

PRODUCERS in Limerick are pitching for a slice of the action that has put champagne and Parma prosciutto on the map as food favourites.

They want special brand protection for Limerick ham, which would put it on a par with such delicacies as Clare Island salmon, Connemara Hill lamb, Timoleague brown pudding, Waterford blaas, and Imokilly Regato cheese.

Having a Protected Destination of Origin designation means no imitations can be sold in the EU.

The application is to be made by the Limerick Food Group, a voluntary body that promotes local food and has strong council backing for its EU application.

Limerick ham remains a popular dish in Irish pubs and restaurants across the world.

Historically, the main producers were O’Mara’s, Mattersons, Shaws and Denny, all of which had large factories in the city, employing hundreds of workers and earning Limerick the nickname ‘Pigtown’.

However, there are no factories still producing Limerick ham, which is produced instead by smaller artisan companies.

Traditionally, preparation of a Limerick ham begins when it is smoked over juniper branches. After this, whole haunches and other cuts are distributed to butchers who then divide them into smaller portions.

A Limerick ham is typically steeped in cold water overnight. Cooking involves boiling in cider, then baking on a very high heat to provide a crispy skin.

Fine Gael councillor Olivia O’Sullivan, who is a founding member of the Limerick Food Group, said there needs to be more cross-promotion of the city’s food offering. She suggested a tourism food trail.

‘We have restaurants and hotels working hard to get local produce onto local menus for the “taste the place” experience like the Limerick Afternoon Tea in the Strand Hotel – there is huge work going on.

‘But what is missing is a tourism product or mechanism to link all their great work together in one offering such as a Limerick food trail.

‘Every food destination in the country has one,’ Cllr O’Sullivan told a meeting of Limerick council’s economic committee.

Calls were made to support the Limerick Milk Market – described by Cllr O’Sullivan as ‘one of Ireland’s

premier food attractions’.

Cllr James Collins, Fianna Fáil, said: ‘We need to get behind the Milk Market and put it on a sound financial footing.’

Fine Gael councillor Daniel Butler said the onus must also be on getting local people to eat local food. The proliferation of low-cost meat in supermarkets was raised by a number of councillors, including Liam Galvin – a farmer by trade – alongside Stephen Keary and Bridie Collins.

This, they claimed, put local farmers under pressure who should be supported instead.

‘How are we supposed to compete?’ asked Cllr John Egan.

Cllr Butler suggested that the council create a designation scheme for restaurants that serve local foods.

‘We need to tell the story of Limerick food a lot more. It’s a really good story to tell,’ he said.

Other plans include the launch of a map promoting West Limerick as a food destination, bringing in local chef demonstrations at this summer’s Limerick Show, and a major food seminar in April.

‘We need to tell story of Limerick food’