A modern classic
Watching a film in front of the Acropolis... it’s like being in the movie
RECLINED on a deck chair with a glass of chilled white in hand on a balmy evening in Athens, it is hard to imagine wanting to be anywhere else. I am seated among dozens of others in one of the city’s famous open-air cinemas. The Thision, is in fact, ‘the greatest outdoor cinema in the world’ having been recognised as such time and time again. It is easy to see why.
To your right, lush, climbing vines creep up the garden walls that encircle the theatre. And to your left, in full view, the Acropolis stands illuminated at night, glowing in all its glory. It’s actually hard to peel your eyes off the scenery to watch the movie.
The Acropolis is of course magnificent, as are the various other ruins scattered across this ancient epicentre. But what most surprised and charmed me about the Greek capital is its edginess. It’s an unpolished gem full of hip cafes, trendy nightspots and great restaurants, all buzzing with life.
WHERE TO GO
While Athens’ many ancient ruins are well worth seeing, the reality is, there is far too many to cover on a weekend break. Trying to do it all will only stress you out. Especially if you are visiting in the summer, as I was, when daytime temperatures can range from 35-40 degrees. Acropolis Hill is unmissable but do it first thing in the morning before the heat.
Museums are a great way to escape the midday sun. The Acropolis Museum is jam-packed with surviving artefacts and art- works from Ancient Greece.
It is also a great resource for learning more about the colourful history of Acropolis Hill. The Parthenon, the most prominent temple on the hill, was built in dedication to the Goddess Athena (who the city is named after).
But in the centuries since it was erected in 447BC this Greek monument has been converted to a Christian Church, an Islamic Mosque and even a gunpowder magazine during wartime. It has weathered all that nature and man has thrown at it and yet still stands watching over the city.
Plaka, a short stroll from the museum, is Athens’ oldest district. It’s a maze of pedestrian streets and small souvenir shops. There are some lovely tavernas and cafes here to cool off in during the day and some great bars for a drink at night.
More shopping can be found at Monastiraki Flea Market. It’s a little too touristy for my liking but the side streets that surround this heaving marketplace are interesting to explore. One street I stumbled across had an array of brightly coloured lanterns hanging overhead as far as the eye can see. And at the end of the road, a circus-themed bar loomed large. It was like something straight out of Alice In Wonderland.
My favourite neighbourhood in Athens was where I stayed, Koukaki. It is at the heart of the city, but far less touristy. Orange trees line the streets and there seems to be a little café on every corner.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
Restaurants with a view are often the worst places to dine. I’ve been to many a tourist trap blindsided by the 360 degree panorama.
But there are always exceptions and Strofi is one of them. This little neighbourhood gem (located in Koukaki) has a very romantic rooftop terrace overlooking a lit-up Acropolis Hill. The food is superb. The vine leaf parcels are a must-try. Strofi gets very busy so make a reservation and request a table on the terrace.
For coffee, snacks or a light lunch, head to the cosy Little Green Tree Books & Coffee also in Koukaki. Nearby, the very hip Kinono serves brunch by day and cocktails by night and specialises in bespoke gin & tonics.
Plaka is the neighbourhood to head to for evening drinks.
I was lured in by the quirky interiors of Noel Bar one late afternoon and ended up staying for cocktails. It is like a giant treasure box inside. The food here is good and the drinks are fantastic.
WHERE TO STAY
Athens can be a very touristy city. Especially in the summer months. Hotels can therefore be expensive and difficult to book. I stayed in an Airbnb flat on a leafy street in Koukaki.
My host, Olga, a British expat living in Greece recently renovated her spare apartment and now rents it out.
It is modern, tastefully decorated and had all the amenities plus more. Olga packed the fridge full of treats and has her very own printed-out guidebook with recommendations, tips and tricks on getting about in Athens.
The apartment is nicer than many five-star hotels I have stayed at and far more spacious for just €150 a night and sleeps four. I felt I had a more ‘local’ experience in this neat flat in this residential neighbourhood, yet I could still walk to all the attractions.