Vintage Loire
An expert guide to where to go and what to see in this enchanting region
She already knew about its famous chateaux, gardens and vineyards but on a recent visit to the Loire Valley in France,
Catherine Murphy was stunned to find a region bursting with colour, underground life and quirky art, with a few Irish links thrown in for good measure.
These, she says, are the things you must do and see on a visit to this beautiful UNESCO World Heritage site.
EXPLORE THE MAIN HUBS
ANGERS and Saumur can both be described as ‘art and history’ cities.
Angers, the capital of the region, is famous for its 13th century fortress which is home to the longest tapestry in the world, the Apocalypse Tapestry. The city is also known as France’s greenest and features a cultural quarter with cobbled streets and half-timbered houses. For a different perspective of the city, visit the Cointreau distillery to see how the company has re-invented its brand with clever modern cocktails. Visit www. angersloiretourisme.com.
The fortified medieval town of Saumur is dominated by the Chateau de Saumur and also boasts a lengthy equestrian history but it’s the enchanting Abbaye Royael de Fontevraud which proves truly gripping.
Founded in the early 12th century, it’s the largest preserved monastic site in Europe and beguiles with Romanesque art and architecture, including the recumbent figures of Henry II and the Plantagenet Kings.
Home to a mixed silent order of Benedictine monks and nuns until 1792, it was transformed into a prison by Napoleon in 1804 and continued to operate as one until 1963. If the walls here could talk, they would tell some stories...
There is also a hotel and awardwinning restaurant at the heart of the Abbey. It must be an incredible experience to stay on and soak up the special atmosphere here when all the tourists have left for the day. Visit www.fontevraud.fr.
For a further culinary treat, make the 30-minute car trip to restaurant Vincent Cuisinier de Campagne, a beautiful country house where gourmet dishes are created using fresh produce from its own garden and lunch is followed up with a visit to its wine caves.
Visit restovinogoranda.blogspot.fr.
LIVE AND SLEEP LIKE ROYALS
In France’s highest chateau nicknamed ‘Le geant du Val de Loire.
Visit Brissac chateau and park, 15 minutes from Angers. It boasts over 200 rooms including a theatre. To fully immerse yourself in this medieval experience, check in for the night.
You’ll be in the fine company of current resident, the 13th Duke of Brissac.
He has spent many holidays in Ireland and advises that the best way to avoid massive heating bills in a seven-floor chateau is to wear an Aran jumper. C’est vrai! Visit www.brissac.net.
GO CAVING
The Anjou region is home to almost 1,500km of underground caves which are used for everything from producing wine, food and art to living villages.
Discover your inner troglodyte with dinner at La Table des Fouees in Saumur, sampling local specialities while learning about tuffeau, the soft local stone which was used to build the architectural gems of the Renaissance.
In the troglodyte village of Bourre, go 50m below ground to the intriguing mushroom galleries of La Cave des Roches. Amongst the shitake, pied bleu and la pleurote varieties you will find mushrooms growing on Irish peat bog, cultivated by hand using ancient natural methods and supplied to some of the best restaurants in the world.
Look out for friezes which have been cut into the stone of these galleries.
DRINK TO THAT
The Loire Valley is the third largest wine region in France.
Discover its fascinating wine culture at Maison Veuve Amiot which was established by Elisabeth Amiot in 1884.
Through 5km of tuffeau cellars, learn about the ‘methode traditionelle’ still used to produce red and white wines. The ‘riddling’ process where bottles are turned on racks to concentrate sediment in the neck was once done entirely by hand. Afterwards, sample one of Veuve Amiot’s specialities, sparkling red wine.
UP, UP AND AWAY
Get high above the Loire Valley with a hot air balloon ride from Montgolfiere. It really is worth getting up at 4.30am to experience a serene flight above the chateaux of the Loire Valley at sunrise. Observe the river wildlife as you sip champagne above sleeping towns and wonder at the ingenious invention that is the hot air balloon. Visit www. aerocomb.fr
Another brilliant aerial experience awaits at Domaine de la Roche Bellin, a countryside haven that offers accommodation in yurts, hobbit houses, Romany caravans and my favourite, a glass-floored hut on stilts.
If you want to see mature adults fight like children over who sleeps where, show them this hut. Set above a little stream with beautiful wooden features and its own rope bridge, it’s the tree house of my dreams.
Domaine de la Roche Bellin is happily situated near chateaux and the Futuroscope attraction and if you ask nicely, owner Sebastien Gaudry may even cook a delicious evening meal for you. See www.hebergement-insolitetouraine.com.
GET ARTY
It’s amazing how Loire valley locals combine nature and culture with art, often in a quirky way. The Monmousseau Caves, near the famous Chenonceau chateau, have been producing wine using natural methods since 1886 and are now also home to a fantastic art installation. Artists have cleverly created tapestries of light based on stain glass techniques through the cave galleries. The result is a space that would be wonderful for special events or parties. Visit www.monmousseau.com.
For a Dali-esque art experience, visit the very charming 15th century Chateau du Rivau. Once visited by Joan of Arc, its owners have lovingly added quirky art installations to create a whole new chateau experience. Fourteen stunning gardens and the castle’s medieval interior are added to by the presence of surrealist art pieces that will tickle art lovers.
You could easily spend hours here with something for all the family to enjoy. It’s also possible to stay at the chateau, at least if you’ve just married. Check out the honeymoon tower at www. chateaudurivau.com
In the town of Blois, the Royal Chateau stages a show nightly at 10pm. Guests sit on the cobbled stones of the courtyard to marvel at this wonder – a sound and light show that’s projected onto the walls of the castle.
For a visit to Blois, stay at the very charming and friendly Chateau des Tertres (17km away), take in a boat trip along the river and have dinner at La Creusille restaurant before enjoying the sound and light show.
Art and nature once again combine wonderfully at the Domaine De Chaumont-Sur-Loire, a former fort which was once home to Catherine de Medici and Benjamin Franklin and is now a Centre for Art and Nature. Last year, its ‘Gardens from the Coming Century’ art season wowed visitors with exhibitions from around the world. www.domaine-chaumont.fr. A word of advice when visiting any gardens or chateaux in the region – make sure you are well protected with insect and mosquito repellent during hot summer months. Visit www.valdeloire-france.com.