The rail thing
Why trains (and coaches) are the best way to visit the North and Donegal
AS I sit on a rock on the shoreline of Lough Eske, Co. Donegal, I can’t help but smile. I’ve come to Donegal with Railtours Ireland’s newest tour and I think I’ve fallen in love with the beauty of the landscape.
Our tour begins on board the newly-refurbished Enterprise train from Dublin to Belfast. I’m a big fan of trains as it is, but first class on the Enterprise is a whole new level of comfort. Enjoying a breakfast fry, I sit back, relax and enjoy the view.
Our guide, Jim, keeps us informed about the various towns, border lines and monuments we pass.
In Belfast, we are given a bus tour of the city and our guide, Ian, explains the historical significance of many of the monuments, murals and buildings that we pass. The memorials and peace wall are particularly significant reminders of the North’s troubled past.
We finish off in the Titanic quarter, home to the historic Harland and Wolff shipyard and the very place where the Titanic was built before departing on her ill-fated maiden voyage.
I’ve been obsessed with the Titanic from a very young age, ever since watching Kate and Leo in the 1997 classic. I’ve read books, articles and watched documentaries about the cruise ship, so this was a real treat.
WITH nine huge interactive galleries, it can seem a little overwhelming at first but soon you get lost in the past. From the history of shipbuilding in Belfast to the Titanic’s launch and the aftermath of the disaster, Titanic Belfast covers every possible angle.
The Titanic experience can become emotional at times, especially when reading about the fear and panic of the passengers. Viewing the video footage of her wreckage was one of the more poignant moments during my visit.
Since it opened in 2012, 100 years after the ship sank, Titanic Belfast has become one of Ireland’s biggest attractions and there’s no surprise there. Titanic Belfast is a place everyone needs to visit at least once.
Next up is Victoria station for our train to Derry. Having never been this far north in the island, I fall in love with the coastline as we whizz by in our train.
Arriving in Derry, we board our coach for our onward jour- ney to Donegal. The fact that Donegal doesn’t have any rail line makes it all the more charming as you feel as though you are stepping back in time.
The Donegal landscape is second to none and you can see why the county was named ‘coolest place on the planet for 2017’ by National Geographic Traveller.
As the bus turns the corner into Harvey’s Point, I hear bagpipes playing. Gradually the grounds and staff come into view and owners, Deirdre and Marc and several staff greet us.
After our warm Donegal wel- come, I am taken to my room by Sheila, who makes sure I have everything I need. After she leaves, I stand for a solid five minutes just staring at the sheer size of the suite. I’m in the spacious deluxe and it’s truly magnificent.
Later, after a short rest and a quick change of clothes, I meet the rest of my group for predinner drinks and a delightful performance form a local family of Irish musicians and dancers.
Just before dinner I take a stroll outside. The sun is setting and the views of Lough Eske are spectacular. The tranquil setting of Harvey’s Point, immersed in the beauty of Donegal’s landscape, is so peaceful and relaxing. After snapping some photos, I rejoin the group and we head for dinner.
We had the seven-course tasting menu, which includes a rotisserie of Hereford beef and clotted cream panna cotta. To work all that off, we spend the night dancing, singing and drinking cocktails.
The next morning, I head down for a buffet breakfast of pancakes, a fry, toast, fruit and smoothies. There’s something for everyone on this extensive menu. And something for everyone to do.
The hotel is renowned for its weddings. And during the summer months there’s a dinner cabaret every Wednesday night, hosted by the evercharming Noel Cunningham.
We join our coach driver Kevin and make the short journey down to Sligo, with Benbulben dominating the landscape.
The rain finally catches up with us as we pay a visit to the grave of William Butler Yeats.
The cemetery is in a beautiful location and the atmosphere is aided by the cawing crows and the sounds of raindrops hitting our umbrellas.
With Benbulben standing protectively over the cemetery at Drumcliffe, I read the epitaph on Yeats’ grave: ‘Cast a cold Eye On Life, on Death. Horseman pass by.’ It is a poignant thought to take with us as we board the train in Sligo and head back to Dublin.
As I enjoy a drink on board, I think back on the sheer variety of this tour. All company guides are enthusiastic, experienced and knowledgeable and really enhance the experience.
The mix of history, culture and luxury ensures that it will be popular, both with tourists and those like myself who want to experience more of Ireland and maybe had never been this far north.