Loy Krathong festival in Bangkok
One of the most picturesque festivals in Bangkok is the evening of Loy Krathong, when people gather around lakes, rivers and canals to pay respects to the water goddess.
Every year, Loy Krathong falls on the night of the 12th lunar month (usually in November), at the end of the rainy season when the full-moon lights up the sky. The sight of thousands of Krathongs, their flickering candles sending a thousand pinpoints of light far into the horizon is a truly magical site, and there are plenty of places in Bangkok where one can get involved with the festivities.
The history behind the festival is complex, and Thais celebrate for many reasons. The main rice harvest season has ended and it’s time to thank the water goddess for a year’s worth of her abundant supply, as well as an apology for polluting the waters. Some believe that this is the time to symbolically ‘float away’ all the anger and grudges one has been holding onto, and including a fingernail or a lock of hair is seen as a way of letting go of the dark side of yourself, to start anew free of negative feelings.
There is no equivalent word in English for ‘Krathong’. One may hear people referring to it as a small boat, vessel, receptacle or container. In the run-up to the festival, many shops and market stalls will display ready-made ‘Krathongs’, or in parts so one can assemble and decorate. In the past, krathongs were made from natural materials – usually a section from a banana tree trunk, crafted into a lotus shape by using folded banana leaves, and these can still be found for sale around the main festival sites. More recently, Thais have become more creative in their craft and design the krathongs from coconut shells, flowers, baked bread, potato slices, some breaking with the conventional lotus leaf shape in favour of turtles and other sea creatures.
If one is ready to experience Loy Krathong the way the locals do, head to Asiatique, the riverfront night market, which is where the biggest crowds gather and some impressive shows happen. Be warned that traffic in the area will be very bad and there will be long queues to take the boat from SapphanTaksin.
The action kicks off around sunset, and there are plenty of krathongs to buy around the river, one can even watch the traditional banana leaf folding method. The large boardwalk area in front of Asiatique will host the main events, including the retelling of the Loy Krathong story via music and dance, a launch site for all krathongs, an illuminated float procession and a firework display. If the crowds here sound too much, there are plenty of other spots along the Chao Phraya river to watch the festivities from.