Travel + Leisure - India & South Asia
ONE WITH THE Panna WILDERNESS IN
KHAJURAHO ALSO SERVES as a base for wildlife adventures, with Panna Tiger Reserve (panna tigerreserve.in) sitting just 100 kilometres away. And what better way is there to conclude a whirlwind trip of Madhya Pradesh than an experience of its natural heritage?
Well before the crack of dawn, I reach the gates to begin my safari. Established in 1981, Panna National Park—declared a tiger reserve in 1994—is home to over 50 tigers, around 200 species of birds, and other impressive fauna, including leopards and sloth bears. I venture into the woods with no great expectations. Minutes into the safari, River Ken joins our expedition, flowing through the reserve from south to north. On every riverbank, the jeep slows down and our eyes search for a big cat quenching its thirst. Bush after bush, three hours pass by with our wildlife sightings limited to a handful of black drongos, a pair of elephants, scattered herds of chital, and some monkeys. Parked close to yet another water body and frustrated by the waiting game, I ask a forest guard if there are indeed big cats in the reserve. “When I went to fetch water from the pond two days ago, I saw one stretched out on his back,” he asserts.
With the clock ticking, the driver accelerates uphill.
Soon, I’m at the precipice of a wide gorge with birds of prey gliding overhead. The reserve is also a breeding ground for five kinds of vultures, I’m told. The tiger is not the only endangered creature in these woods. Just short of the exit gate, a flock of jeeps blocks our path. There’s palpable excitement in the air. “There’s been a sighting,” I overhear. Visitors are standing up in their seats and aiming their binoculars in one direction. I follow the gaze of their gadgets. Between fumbling with a pair of binoculars and balancing on the edge of the jeep, I spot a tigress with two playful cubs! Just as I lose focus, the stripes disappear in the bushes. Madhya Pradesh makes sure I see it all, no matter how briefly.