Travel + Leisure - India & South Asia

WHY WE LOVE THE MOUNTAINS

A three-day expedition to the alpine lake of Kedartal allows ABHINAV CHANDEL to beat lockdown blues and revel in the natural wonders of Uttarakhan­d.

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IT WAS A FEW MONTHS into the first lockdown in 2020, and ennui was beginning to set in. Crossing state borders was out of question, so I decided to explore my home state of Uttarakhan­d with a few fellow adventurer­s. And there was no better way to do it than hitting the trekking trails in the Gangotri region of the Himalayas.

I chanced upon a photograph of Kedartal while browsing the Internet and knew instantly that this pristine lake, situated at an altitude of 4,750 metres, would be my destinatio­n.

The trail to the glacial lake begins from Gangotri, a popular pilgrimage site. However, we gave the popular route alongside River Ganga a miss; it would’ve taken us towards Gaumukh, the pout of the Gangotri glacier and the origin of River Ganga. Instead, we trudged along the steep trail running in the opposite direction. Within an hour, we were high above the town of Gangotri, staring into the vast expanse of Himalayan wilderness.

The trail moved upwards alongside Kedar Ganga, a stream that stayed with us until Kedartal, and took us to our first campsite, Bhoj Kharak, perched at an altitude of 3,780 metres. We had made our way through a jungle of birch trees, at times tackling steep ascents and rocky climbs and on others gasping at the magnificen­t views of the snowcapped Bhrigu Parbat.

Day two of our trek gave us some great sunrise views of Bhrigu Parbat. It also widened up the valley for us and presented an unobstruct­ed view of the Thalay Sagar mountain throughout the day, along with other mountains and peaks. The second campsite, Kedar Kharak, situated at an altitude of 4,200 metres, is where a million stars hang in the night sky and cold Himalayan winds pierce your windcheate­rs.

By day three, we traversed more than 17 kilometres and finally laid eyes on Kedartal. The turquoise lake and the tall peaks surroundin­g it reminded us once again why treks like these are worthwhile. Kedartal rekindled my love for Uttarakhan­d. By exploring one of the remotest regions of the state, I felt closer to home.

 ??  ?? From left: The origin of River Ganga is at Gaumukh in the Gangotri glacier, 19 km from the town of Gangotri; trekkers negotiate a steep section known as Spider Wall on the Kedartal trail.
From left: The origin of River Ganga is at Gaumukh in the Gangotri glacier, 19 km from the town of Gangotri; trekkers negotiate a steep section known as Spider Wall on the Kedartal trail.
 ??  ?? Kedartal has a gorgeous backdrop featuring the 6,904-metre-tall Thalay Sagar mountain.
Kedartal has a gorgeous backdrop featuring the 6,904-metre-tall Thalay Sagar mountain.

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