The Hindu (Bangalore)

Pop culture Did you know that there are now about 700 goli soda brands in India? The drink’s resurgence is fuelled by nostalgia, and a growing consumer preference for unique avours

- Praveen Sudevan praveen.s@thehindu.co.in

The clink of glass marbles against bottles, a burst of citrusy zz, and a childhood memory comes ˜ooding back. Goli soda, the iconic Indian beverage, is returning across major cities.

Also known as banta soda in North India, it is a drink made with carbonated water, ˜avoured syrup, and sometimes a hint of salt. The magic lies in its unique bottling method. Unlike regular soda bottles, goli soda comes in a Codd-neck bottle with a marble stopper. To access the drink, you press the marble into the neck, releasing the pressure to create a satisfying zz.

Since the mid-20th Century, goli soda has held a special place in the Indian beverage culture. However, the rise of mass-produced aerated drinks led to goli soda’s decline. “Large companies came in with standardis­ed designs and universal ˜avours,” says Abdul Khader, co-founder of Spark Goli Soda, a Hyderabad-based brand. “They ožered a taste people were familiar with, and goli soda, with its regional variations, kind of faded away.”

But, over the past ve years, goli soda is experienci­ng a delightful comeback.

Reasons for resurgence

According to Abdul, there are now about 700 goli soda brands (including hyperlocal ones) in India. Social media has played a crucial role in the drink’s second wind, with eye-catching photos and videos sparking interest among younger generation­s, many unfamiliar with the drink. “There’s a de nite nostalgia factor,” says Raghuraman Gobinathan, co-founder, Kaalaiyan Goli Soda in Coimbatore.

But he believes the resurgence goes beyond just fond memories. Cultural identity is a factor, too. “The Jallikattu protests in 2017 de nitely played a role in the growth of our brand,” he says. “There was this anti-MNC sentiment in Tamil Nadu, and people were looking for alternativ­es to the colas of big brands. Goli soda, a traditiona­l South Indian beverage, t the bill perfectly.”

Goli soda also ožers a distinct taste pro le, often featuring local ingredient­s. “We focus on ‘desi’ ˜avours like pudina (mint) and jeera (cumin),” says Abdul. “These resonate with people and perfectly complement Indian cuisine like biryani. It’s a return to familiar, authentic tastes.”

The emphasis on hygiene and safety standards also helps. “Unlike the old days, many brands now use semi-automatic machinery and prioritise proper certi cation for their ingredient­s,” says Dinesh Kumar Gopal, director, Phoenix

Goli Soda in Chennai. “This focus on quality resonates with today’s health-conscious consumers.” It also ensures a shelf-life of six months.

Rahul Johar, founder-CEO, Oxbow Brands, which sells goli soda in Bengaluru, sheds light on the drink’s growing popularity.

“Goli soda has seen a notable uptick in Bangalore in recent years. Its nostalgic resonance coupled with diverse new brands and ˜avours has played a crucial role in its resurgence,” he explains.

This nostalgic appeal is not limited to older generation­s; the younger demographi­c is also being introduced to this cultural icon through regional cinema and innovative marketing.

The scorching summer of

2024 has signi cantly boosted goli soda’s sales. “This scal year, we have witnessed a remarkable surge in sales, with our brand

Dobra Pop Goli experienci­ng a three-fold increase over the last two months compared to the colder winter months,” says Rahul.

Fizz or zzle?

Despite its resurgence, the drink faces stiž competitio­n from establishe­d beverage giants. Abdul points out the pricing challenges. “Glass bottles are expensive, and while we have automated parts of the process, the production costs remain high compared to PET plastic bottles (that contain colas),” he says. This cost factor makes it di‘cult for goli soda to compete with multinatio­nal cola brands that ožer similar volumes at lower prices.

Dinesh emphasises the cost and ežort of maintainin­g high standards. “We don’t compromise on quality, but this means our goli soda is more expensive,” he explains. This price dižerence can be a barrier for some customers.

The lack of brand value is another hurdle. “Most goli soda companies are micro-brands with limited regional presence, which ažects growth. Unlike big cola companies, we don’t have the same level of brand recognitio­n,” Abdul adds. This has led to a slight dip in

demand.

Reinventin­g the marble

Goli soda is not just riding on nostalgia; it is evolving with modern trends. Vendors are experiment­ing to keep the beverage relevant, from innovative ˜avours to new packaging.

For instance, Spark Goli Soda has introduced a Remix line, combining multiple ˜avours such as Green Twister (lime and green apple) and Peach Punch (peach and lime), catering to younger and internatio­nal markets.

The secret to success, according to Dinesh, is a mix of traditiona­l and modern ˜avours. “When it comes to Chennai or even the whole of Tamil Nadu, nothing beats paneer (rose water) ˜avour,” he says, “But the name causes a bit of a mix-up outside Tamil Nadu as people confuse it for the dairy paneer.”

Packaging plays a crucial role, too. Traditiona­lly sold in robust glass bottles with a marble stopper, the packaging is a nostalgic experience. However, vendors are modernisin­g the packaging to cater to contempora­ry consumer preference­s and regulatory requiremen­ts.

“We developed a new, lightweigh­t bottle that meets internatio­nal quality standards,” says Abdul, “It’s similar to the bottle used for the popular Japanese drink Ramune. We have launched a discount programme for our single-use glass bottles. You’ll earn points towards your next purchase when you buy a case of 24 bottles and return the empties.”

Meanwhile, Dinesh emphasises their commitment to quality packaging. “We use natural colouring agents, sugar (as opposed to cheap and harmful sweetening agents), and sturdy, recyclable plastic bottles. Our bottles are properly sealed and designed to prevent children from accidental­ly swallowing the marble, ensuring safety and quality.”

More than just a drink, it is a symbol of local tradition and a nostalgic reminder of simpler times. So, pop the marble, unleash the zz, and savour

the taste of a bygone era.

Sodabottle­openerwala introduces a rozana feast called Soda Lunch Thalis. These thalis come in the options of vegetarian, chicken, mutton, and seafood. Each plate also comes with its set of desserts. The thalis pay homage to Bombay and Parsi-Irani cuisine. Ongoing at Plot Number 25/ 4, Lavelle Road.

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Fizzy memories (Top) Spark Goli Soda’s appearance­s at music festivals; (right) 100-year-old Kannan and

Co. Goli Soda in Vellore. C VENKATACHA­LAPATHY AND SPECIAL ARRANGEMEN­T

Unlike the old days, many brands now use semi-automatic machinery and prioritise proper certi cation for their ingredient­s DINESH KUMAR GOPAL Director, Phoenix Goli Soda

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