Travel safe & in style
Located on the banks of the Irrawaddy River, Mandalay was founded in 1857 by King Mindon. But immediately thereafter, in 1886, his successor King Thibaw was forced to surrender power to the British colonist. Although regal importance was lost, and imperial and later independent capital transferred to Rangoon, Mandalay is still a royal city in spirit and a bastion of cultural identity. It is haunted by the memory of King Mindon and we could never forget this in our explorations, because wherever we wandered we always, sooner or later, found our steps returning us to the walls and moat of the former royal palace.
Royal Remnants
Sadly the palace is no more, for the magnificent royal apartments were destroyed during Allied bombing on Japanese forces that occupied the city for a short while during World War II. To be seen now, imposing if somewhat somber, are only the wide moat and the massive walls punctuated by gateways and watchtowers. Inside, whatever beautiful buildings we saw had been built very recently with international help. And for inkling of vanished material beauty, the Shwenandaw Monastery, once a royal apartment, stands beyond the north-eastern corner of the palace walls and displays the full magnificence of traditional Burmese decorative woodcarving.
The best starting point of any sightseeing tour is Mandalay Hill, which gave the city its name or rather its raison d’être. All of Mandalay Hill is sacred ground and so you must remove your shoes before you take the lift or climb the 1729 steps to the top. Places of interest in the way include a temple enshrining Peshawar Relics (Three bones of Lord Buddha bought from Peshawar) and, near the summit, a standing gilded Buddha statue pointing majestically to the city below – a unique posture in Buddhist iconography. From the top there are commanding views over the old palace grounds in one direction, and the distant, hazy blue Shan Hills in the other.
Pagodas – Past and Present
Descending to the base of the hill we visited a number of important religious sights. The Kyauktawgyi Pagoda is noted for its enormous Buddha statue, carved from a single gigantic block of marble. Completely teak wood made Sandamuni Pagoda marks the site of king Mindon’s temporary palace during the construction of the city and houses marble slabs inscribed with commentaries on the Buddha canons. Also nearby is the haunting ruins of Atumashi Kyaung, the once ‘Incomparable Monastery’, destroyed by fire in 1890.
Most striking of the monuments in this area, however, is the Kuthodaw Pagoda, built by Mindon in 1857. It is remarkable for its 729 stone slabs inscribed with individual pages of Tipitaka, (the holy scriptures of Theravada Buddhism) a phenomenon that has given rise to the sobriquet ‘the world’s largest book’. Each slab is enshrined in its own small white pagoda, ranked in rows like guardsmen on parade. Whether from Mandalay Hill or from nearby this is an unforgettable sight.
Actually predating the founding of Mandalay, Mahamuni Pagoda, housing the most venerated Buddha idol, is the real religious heart of Mandalay. The act of reverence is much in evidence and at all times of the day devotees throng around the central image. This large seated Buddha is actually cast in metal, although it has long been practice to pay homage by covering it with wafers of gold leaf. In this way the image grows day by day, and its torso, arms and legs have all but lost their shape: only the highly polished face is untouched and gazes serenely upon the continual act of respect.
People make the place
Ultimately, the gentle ways of the Burmese affect one more than the physical surroundings, and, intriguing as are the temples and monuments, it is the people who give Mandalay its distinctive character and attraction. The wide pavement outside the palace is a peoples’ place in the evening. Singles jog, couples flirt and families stroll, while alongside on the road sprinkling of pedaled trishaws vie for space with increasing number of cars. It is the kind of place where something always seems to be happening, and if this is an illusion it is an effective one.
Of all the intriguing corners of Mandalay, none is more engaging than the Irrawaddy waterfront. I strolled down to the area and found the timeless scene of the godowns, jetties and river boats. Coolies with loads on their back and others swarm about their business while myriad vehicles haul loads of river-borne cargo. It is very lively, very ethnic and very nineteenth century in its ambience. Mandalay, because of its location, is a major market town. The thriving centre of commerce is Zegyo Market, in the middle of the city, by a clock tower, honouring Queen Victoria. It is vast covered area is packed with stalls selling everything produced in Burma - and whatever else enters through the smuggling route. The markets are always bustling with locals as well as ethnic tribals from Upper Burma – the Shan, the Kachins, the Palaungs and traders further afield.
Mandalay, more than anywhere else in the country, gives a real glimpse of quintessential Myanmar. It is one of those cities that can actually still exert an uncanny charm!
UDAY K CHAKRABORTY finds that Myanmar’s second largest city can still exert an uncanny charm