Dress for Success
Anita Dongre, designer, on dressing royalty, taking fashion to the masses, and empowering women.
Q. You’ve made your brand a success in India and abroad— and count Kate Middleton among your customers. How did you break into the business?
In the early 1990s, ‘fashion design’ wasn’t considered a ‘real’ profession in India, but I set up my first workshop—two sewing machines in my balcony—where I, along with my sister Meena, designed for friends and local boutiques. I’ve always designed keeping in mind the needs of the modern woman. The Duchess of Cambridge, Kate Middleton, and Sophie Trudeau, the spouse of the prime minister of Canada, are the embodiment of this woman—my muse.
Q. You recently opened tailoring units in tribal areas to provide employment to women.
To me, sustainable fashion means looking towards the future, practising and building processes that are sustainable, respectful of the people involved and environmentally conscious. Anita Dongre Grassroot reflects my core passion—to design clothes that hold a purpose. Every piece in this collection celebrates the crafts of India in contemporary wear. It also provides artisans a sustainable means of income in their villages, thus, driving economy back through textile crafts.
Q. Who is the Indian woman in the context of fashion and how has she evolved?
The modern Indian woman is educated, well-travelled and fiercely independent—a reflection of you and me. While fashion choices are more or less influenced by society, culture or celebrities, the modern woman is more likely to be influenced by her own inclinations and preferences rather than global trends. I believe that women should wear what they feel most confident in.
Q. As a designer, how do you see the position of women in India?
Fashion can be used as a tool to send out powerful messages. Having said that, the minute a woman is economically empowered and independent, it’s a complete game-changer. A large part of our work force comprises women. I see the sense of pride women get when they start making money; they have tasted freedom, and it’s so important for a woman to have money that’s her own.