Transit in the slow lane: Enjoy a breather, cros
Along the Huangpu River, the slow boat has been overtaken by the fast lane. Until 1991, there were no bridges connecting the western and eastern sides of Shanghai. All transport was by ferry.
Today there are 10 bridges, not to mention tunnels, and 17 ferry lines have survived.
One of the survivors is the Duwu Line Ferry in Minhang. It carries 4,000 passengers a day under Minpu Bridge, the nearly 10-year-old span that diverted much of the ferry traffic. For many, water transport has largely become a leisure activity more than a necessity.
Shanghai has only two ferry lines that closely parallel bridge routes. Duwu Line is one of them. The other is the Nanlu Line that operates under Nanpu Bridge.
Minpu Bridge that looms over the Duwu line is the eighth span built across the Huangpu River. It is 3,900 meters long and went into operation in 2010. It has two decks, one used for an expressway and the other used for local traffic. The bridge has relieved the need to rely on a ferry to cross that portion of the river.
The Duwu Line is an old one. It dates back to the 1920s. As early as the 1980s, its ferries were loading small cars onboard to cross the river. Today it makes 52 round trips a day.
Harking back to the busy old days, a veteran ticket collector surnamed Zhang carries fond little memories of the last three decades in the job.
“What a noise it made when passengers dropped their tokens into the machine,” he said. “Before the bridge, people flooded to take the ferry, especially during rush hours going to or from work. We really needed to squeeze passengers in before leaving the dock.”
Today, the tide is out. Passenger numbers have ebbed. Many passengers now are tourists who view the ferry as a bit of a daytime excursion.
Despite dwindling demand, the ferry station has been upgraded. People can now scan their transportation card or a QR code to get onboard. Tokens in different colors are fast becoming collectors’ items.
Zhang has witnessed it all.
“We now get more tourists, especially on weekends and holidays,” he said. “A lot of people bring their kids.”
The ferry line welcomes new visitors, who often read about the boat trip online or hear about it from friends.
He Wen, who began working as a graphic designer after her recent graduation, came to take the ferry with several friends. She said she learned about the boat trip on Douyin, the video app where users share aspects of their lives.
The ferry connects the Wujing and Duhang docks on opposite side of the river in Minhang. On both banks, there are visitor attractions. On the Wujing side, there is nearby Wujing Park, and on the Duhang side, there is Pujiang Country Park, a tourist attraction that opened just two years ago and has become very popular.
For about one minute, the ferry’s route crosses under the bridge. That brings passengers out onto the deck to take pictures of the first double-deck bridge crossing the Huangpu in Shanghai.
Many passengers take the ferry simply for an outing to see something new. Older local residents are often drawn to the trip by nostalgia.
A woman surnamed Shang and her husband from Wujing regularly use the Duwu Line. Now retired, they care for a grandchild named Maomao. When the weather is fine, they occasionally take him on the ferry trip. What little boy doesn’t love a boat?
“It is only a few minutes’ walk for us to get to the dock, and Maomao always enjoys the ride,” Shang said. “He says he wants to be a boat captain when he grows up.”
Ferry travel, while slower than bridge travel, can be a relaxing respite from urban stress. Its rhythms soothe, the river breezes refresh and the experience reminds us how much the city has evolved from simpler times.
Duwu Ferry Line opened in 1928. It now connects Gongshan and Shendu roads in Minhang. In 1964, it was officially taken over by Shanghai Ferry Co Ltd.
It operates from about 5am to 7pm, with a ferry leaving every 30 minutes. Tickets cost 2 yuan (30 US cents).
Minhang has three ferry lines now in use: Duwu, Ximin and Chenche.
Chenche Line