Where to Eat

Al Pescatore

A family-run restaurant since 1968 serving seafood fresh from the Adriatic. Bari; alpescatorebari.com.

Acquapazza

A must-hit spot on the Amalfi Coast; be sure to try the house-made colatura (anchovy oil). Cetara; acquapazza.it.

Guglielmo Vuolo

Excellent Neapolitan pizzas with a twist: the dough is made with seawater rather than salt. Naples; guglielmovuolo.com.

Baccanti

Great food in an even greater setting: a complex of old caves facing Matera’s picturesque rock-cut churches. Matera; baccantiristorante.it.

Flavio al Velavevodetto

When in Rome, don’t miss this sprawling, rootsy osteria near Testaccio, the city’s old meat-packing district. The cuisine is as Roman as it gets: think agnello brodettato (lamb stew with egg and lemon) and polpette (meatballs with lentils) ristorante velavevodetto.it. Where to Stay Casa Lawrence Loretto Pacitti’s farmhouse B&B near the village of Picinisco. casalawrence.it; doubles from US$85. Hotel Cetus A lovely cliffside property just up the road from Cetara. hotelcetus.com; doubles from US$295. Palace Hotel A 200-room landmark in downtown Bari, just steps from the city’s main shopping street and within easy reach of its medieval center. palacehotelbari.com; doubles from US$205. Sextantio le Grotte della Civita Matera’s most atmospheric lodgings, with 18 spare but romantic cave rooms in the heart of the Sassi district. legrotte-dellacivita .sextantio.it; doubles from US$178.