Vancouver Sun

Resort town offers more than just skiing

Beautiful B.C.: This final part of our series showcases province's wondrous wildlife, scenic treasures and unparallel­ed recreation

- Jane Mundy

Whistler- An all-season resort

Whistler is the #1 Ski Destinatio­n in North America, but there's more fun to be had in Whistler than just on the slopes.

Whatever your speed, from bobsleddin­g on the world's fastest track to lounging in an outdoor spa, everyone can enjoy Whistler, including youngsters and the family dog.

Hop on the three-kilometre Peak2peak gondola, which is the longest unsupporte­d gondola line in the world. One of the trams, the silver special, has a glass floor that increases your chances of wildlife spotting.

Grab a bevy by the Olympic Rings and do a little people watching. One non-skier advantage is nabbing the best spot on one of Whistler's mountainsi­de patios near a heat lamp with a great view — before everyone comes down from the mountain.

And indoors, the Audain Art Museum's 55,000-square-foot building is a work of art unto itself.

Although numerous lodgings in Whistler come with full kitchens, nightlife could include visiting (but not for long) an ice-cold and blue-hued vodka room before splurging on haute cuisine.

Jane Mundy

Haida Gwaii — Islands at the edge of the World

This sea-swept archipelag­o off B.C.'S northern coast is renowned for its natural beauty, abundant marine life, and unique First Nations culture and artistry. Called Xhaaidlagh­a Gwaayaai, the “Islands at the Edge of the World” in the language of its early inhabitant­s, the western most point in Canada should be high on any adventurou­s traveller's bucket list.

Often compared to the Galapagos Islands for its evolutiona­rily unique flora and fauna, remote Haida Gwaii is home to millions of sea birds, a distinct species of black bear and lush rainforest­s thick with giant Sitka spruce and red cedar, from which master Haida carvers fashioned their world-famous totem poles.

Orcas and Pacific white-sided dolphins patrol the waters off its coastlines, and enormous colonies of sea mammals and migrating population­s of salmon and halibut thrive just offshore, making these islands a worldclass sport-fishing destinatio­n.

For thousands of years, Haida fishers launched their enormous dugout canoes into Haida Gwaii's storm-pummelled waters, providing food for their clans who occupied coastal bays and inlets. Their descendant­s have made determined efforts to preserve, respect and renew their homeland and millennia-old culture and traditions. Today they invite visitors to respectful­ly experience the still hidden world of the Eagle and Raven clans.

Mark Sissons

Great Bear Rainforest — Home of the Spirit Bear

Named for the grizzlies, American black bears and Kermode or Spirit bears (a black bear born with a recessive gene that produces cream-coloured fur) that inhabit its thickly forested islands and inlets, the world's largest coastal temperate rainforest stretches from the northern tip of Vancouver Island to the Alaska border.

Twice the size of Africa's Serengeti, the Great Bear Rainforest is also home to countless species of birds, marine life and other mammals, including sea wolves that hunt salmon from streams and swim like sea otters.

Environmen­talists first coined the name “Great Bear Rainforest” in the 1990s, partly to draw attention to their efforts to preserve its old-growth forests from industrial logging. In 2006, an agreement between the B.C. government and a coalition of conservati­onists, loggers, hunters and First Nations establishe­d a 400-kilometre-long protected coastal area.

Today, you can explore this magnificen­t coastline from an eco-lodge or by boat, cruising up thickly forested fiords lined with snow-capped peaks and visiting isolated First Nations communitie­s.

While whales, sea wolves, dolphins and grizzlies are plentiful, the elusive Spirit bear — estimated to now only number around 400 individual­s — only emerges from the forests of Princess Royal and Gribble Islands during fall salmon spawning season.

Mark Sissons

Victoria — The Garden City with a spectacula­r Inner Harbour

Savvy travellers prefer the autumn when summer crowds have gone, and the temperatur­e is ideal for strolling its many gardens and Beacon Hill Park —Victoria is the garden city after all. Sure it's touristy, but Butchart Gardens never disappoint­s.

Take a crisp morning stroll along the loop: Start at the Inner Harbour, wind around James Bay to Dallas Road and the breakwater, take a left on Cook Street and stop for a coffee in Cook Street Village. Short-cut back through Beacon Hill Park or keep going along Cook to Fort Street and culinary stores.

Later, browse the historic warehouse district, pop into the iconic Capital Iron that has been selling everything forever, and sidle up to the bar at one of several craft breweries.

And the shopping — many local designers showcase their wares, from clothing to crafts to fine art. Thrift shops abound on Lower Johnson, affectiona­tely called Lojo, and there is a huge Value Village on Store Street.

The food scene is nothing short of amazing. In the not-so-distant past, a posh meal in Victoria usually meant French or Italian — and imported wine — from only a few decent restaurant­s. Now eateries are competing with each other to serve the best farm- and forest-to-table cuisine focusing on everything local.

Victoria is steeped in history, and for a crash course, sign up for one of several guided walking tours to delve into the past or visit heritage neighbourh­oods such as James Bay with an architectu­re focus.

Jane Mundy

Harrison Hot Springs — A beachside weekend

Yes, you can have a beach vacation on the shores of Lake Harrison, two hours outside Vancouver. It was the nicest, quietest stay our family has ever had.

The Sts'ailes were called to these traditiona­l “healing waters” long before “St. Alice's Well” enticed settlers in the 1880s. The hot springs still draw families to the village's shallow sandy beaches and mountain scenery, gelato shops and playground sets.

Try easy hikes to nearby Bridal Falls, beach picnics, and soaking in open-air mineral pools at charming Harrison Hot Springs Resort. Or go for the water sports: kayaking, swimming, boat tours, and fishing.

Heading home, don't forget to stop roadside for corn, fieldfresh berries, fruits, eggs and cut flowers.

Finish up at The Farm House Natural Cheeses in Agassiz, with ice cream for kids and artisan goat cheese for you (the Provencal chèvre's a soft cloud) — before hitting the highway for home, sand still in your toes.

Elaine O'connor

Northern Vancouver Island — Whale watching and wildlife tours

Few destinatio­ns can boast having more wildlife than people, but northern Vancouver Island is one of them. Bears, cougars, whales and wolves are some of the creatures you'll find in this largely undevelope­d region with fewer than 150,000 residents.

But the people who do live here are often just as fascinatin­g as the animals, from hardy loggers living off the evergreen forests, to self-reliant types who don't miss urban amenities, to Indigenous people eager to share their rich culture.

Whether it's going on a wildlife tour with an Indigenous guide from Sea Wolf Cultural Adventures, admiring masks and other artifacts at the U'mista Cultural Centre in Alert Bay, or searching for sea otters with the newest business in the area — Coastal Rainforest Safaris — experienci­ng First Nations culture is an unforgetta­ble highlight.

Nature lovers will want to hike into Cape Scott Provincial Park to camp on a sandy beach at the edge of the rainforest.

Those seeking more First Nations culture will enjoy The Kwa'lilas Hotel in Port Hardy. And for hedonists, nothing beats Nimmo Bay Wilderness Resort. Suzanne Morphet

Rossland —

B.C.'S mountain-biking capital

Rossland doesn't mean to brag,

but it is the mountain biking capital of Canada.

It's also a hiking and trail running mecca. The hiking and trail running is on 200 kilometres of easy-to-extreme maintained and marked trails.

The alpine golf is excellent and there's sophistica­ted and casual dining, boutique shopping and spas. And, oh yes, it's the hometown of Red Mountain Resort, which touts the best powder downhill skiing in B.C.

The mountain, which dominates the view from Rossland, really does shimmer red in the sunshine. Built in the crater of an extinct volcano, Rossland, population 4,000, is surrounded by the Monashee Mountains in the West Kootenay Rocky Mountain region.

The aforementi­oned best-in-canada mountain biking is not just on Red Mountain, but kilometre after kilometre of old railway beds, whisky-running routes and miners' trails.

And speaking of miners, the town is named after Ross Thompson, who staked a gold rush claim nearby in 1892.

The town's main street, Thompson Avenue, is also named after him.

Cowichan Valley — Canada's Provence

Dubbed the “Cote d'or of Canada,” the bucolic Cowichan Valley north of Victoria claims Canada's only maritime Mediterran­ean climate. Filled with vineyards and farms, it's become a destinatio­n for gourmet travellers.

A road trip comprises many stops at a number of wineries, include exceptiona­l eateries and accommodat­ions.

The area produces award-winning pinot noirs and pinot grises, along with ciders and balsamic vinegars.

Part of the fun is following the wine route signs along winding country roads. And bring the kids: tubing the Cowichan River is a blast.

Kamloops - Love the Loops

Hike wide-open spaces. Golf award-winning courses. Bike uncrowded trails. Paddle on 100 lakes. Trophy fish on still waters. This is Tourism Kamloops' top-five list of things to do in the city affectiona­tely known as The Loops. But that is by no means the end of the list.

Kamloops, the city of 115,000, located where the North and South Thompson rivers meet in B.C.'S Southern Interior, also has wineries, breweries, mountain biking, canoeing, kayaking, boating, beaches, horseback riding and rock climbing.

“Our geography really sets us apart,” says Monica Dickinson of Tourism Kamloops.

“We're located mid-province, perfect for a driving B.C. staycation, and we offer great value for everything we offer.”

If winter's more your thing, then Sun Peaks Resort near Kamloops is the largest downhill ski area in B.C.'S Interior.

Sun Peaks is also open in the summer for hiking, biking, dining and overnight stays at a range of hotels and lodges.

Steve Macnaull

The Chilcotin – B.C.'S Wild West frontier

Stretching from the Fraser River to the Coast Mountain Range, the Chilcotin's broad plateaus and grasslands, shimmering glaciers and cobalt lakes form some of the most spectacula­r scenery in British Columbia.

This is authentic cowboy country still, home to sprawling ranch lands and rolling hay fields, where horseback riding is as popular as hiking, and wildlife viewing draws visitors from around the world.

Whether you're staying in a 5-star dude ranch or a First Nations-owned grizzly bear safari lodge, you'll appreciate why the still largely untamed Chilcotin has been called B.C.'S Wild West frontier. Here in one of the largest expanses of wilderness found anywhere in North America, roads less travelled and rugged trails slice through breathtaki­ng backcountr­y.

The Chilcotin's original inhabitant­s, the Tsilhqot'in (Chilcotin) and St'at'imc (Lillooet) First Nations, called this region the “Skumakun” or “Land of Plenty” for its abundance of fish and wildlife.

Grizzly and black bears, moose, wolverine, wolf, coyote, deer and bighorn sheep still roam free, as do eagles, owls, herons and dozens more species of birds.

From grizzly viewing at Tweedsmuir Provincial Park and fishing on pristine lakes to white-water rafting, trekking, snowmobili­ng and heliskiing, the Chilcotin is a year-round magnet for outdoor adventurer­s. Mark Sissons

Sooke — Where rainforest meets the sea

About 45 minutes west of Victoria, Sooke is perfect for lightweigh­t adventurer­s and gourmands.

Rent a fast and stable foot-powered Hobie kayak and zip past Sooke Harbour and Whiffin Spit through kelp gardens, and water so clear you see purple and pink sea stars and a world of marine life far below.

Bike the famous 56 km “Galloping Goose” converted railway trail. (You can rent e-bikes, easy peasy.)

Hiking at Sooke Potholes Provincial Park is not to be missed — even on a gloomy day. Well-maintained trails lead down to pools and potholes naturally carved into the bedrock of the Sooke River with crystal clear water.

Sooke offers good restaurant­s (the Little Vienna Bakery and Wild Mountain Restaurant are fantastic), many artists' workshops and galleries and dozens of B&BS and small inns, including spectacula­r cottages at Sookepoint Ocean Resort. Although the resort is about 45 minutes from `downtown' Sooke, below your deck is “Orca Alley” — whale watching in comfort!

Jane Mundy

Tumbler Ridge — Where dinosaurs once roamed

Home to one of the most extensive exhibits of dinosaur footprints in Canada, Northern B.C.'S Tumbler Ridge has etched its reputation in stone.

Thanks to a dedicated team of local experts, this tiny community northeast of Prince George is now home to the first UNESCO Global Geopark in western North America.

Designated areas of internatio­nal geological significan­ce, Global Geoparks promote the sustainabl­e developmen­t of local communitie­s within their vicinities through conservati­on, education and geotourism initiative­s.

For a deep dive into the distant past, visit Tumbler Ridge's renowned Peace Region Palaeontol­ogy Research Centre, which features education and guided-tour programs, as well as museum exhibits in the Dinosaur Discovery Gallery and the Community Centre. Then head out to explore the area's wealth of protected geographic­al wonders, including waterfalls, rock formations, alpine summits, caves and more.

Visitors can also explore metallurgi­cal-coal mines, giant renewable-energy wind turbines and plenty of rugged ATV and snowmobile terrain. Hiking and cross-country skiing, rock and ice climbing are also popular.

With a unique combinatio­n of diverse ecosystems, ground-breaking archeology and fascinatin­g First Nations history and culture, set in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains, Tumbler Ridge is as unique as those ancient trackways and fossils that make it the undisputed dinosaur capital of B.C.

Mark Sissons

 ?? MARK SISSONS ?? A mother grizzly and her cub graze on the shoreline sedges of Khutze Inlet, midway along the Great Bear Rainforest coast.
MARK SISSONS A mother grizzly and her cub graze on the shoreline sedges of Khutze Inlet, midway along the Great Bear Rainforest coast.
 ?? DESTINATIO­N BC ?? Ruggedly beautiful Haida Gwaii is home to abundant marine life and rich First Nations culture and artistry.
DESTINATIO­N BC Ruggedly beautiful Haida Gwaii is home to abundant marine life and rich First Nations culture and artistry.
 ?? DESTINATIO­N GREATER VICTORIA ?? Fan Tan Alley in Victoria is the narrowest street in the country and a side door to Canada's oldest Chinatown.
DESTINATIO­N GREATER VICTORIA Fan Tan Alley in Victoria is the narrowest street in the country and a side door to Canada's oldest Chinatown.
 ?? VAIL RESORTS ?? Whistler is so much more than just a winter destinatio­n, offering attraction­s for all ages.
VAIL RESORTS Whistler is so much more than just a winter destinatio­n, offering attraction­s for all ages.
 ?? HARRISON HOT SPRINGS ?? Harrison Hot Springs Resort is a base camp for natural attraction­s and outdoor adventure, including Green Point Day Use area.
HARRISON HOT SPRINGS Harrison Hot Springs Resort is a base camp for natural attraction­s and outdoor adventure, including Green Point Day Use area.
 ?? DESTINATIO­N BC ?? Northern Vancouver Island rewards explorers with solitude, secluded beaches, and nature.
DESTINATIO­N BC Northern Vancouver Island rewards explorers with solitude, secluded beaches, and nature.
 ?? DESTINATIO­N BC ?? The rugged Chilcotin area is a magnet for outdoor adventurer­s, with its spectacula­r scenery, pristine lakes and abundance of fish and wildlife.
DESTINATIO­N BC The rugged Chilcotin area is a magnet for outdoor adventurer­s, with its spectacula­r scenery, pristine lakes and abundance of fish and wildlife.
 ?? DESTINATIO­N BC ?? Kamloops has a lot to offer including wineries, breweries, mountain biking, canoeing, kayaking, boating, beaches, horseback riding and rock climbing.
DESTINATIO­N BC Kamloops has a lot to offer including wineries, breweries, mountain biking, canoeing, kayaking, boating, beaches, horseback riding and rock climbing.
 ?? JANE MUNDY ?? The Cowichan Valley is a destinatio­n for gourmet travellers, with its farms, wineries and fantastic eateries.
JANE MUNDY The Cowichan Valley is a destinatio­n for gourmet travellers, with its farms, wineries and fantastic eateries.
 ?? LISA KADANE ?? Sooke is known for the rich tide pools and shoreline trails at Botanical Beach.
LISA KADANE Sooke is known for the rich tide pools and shoreline trails at Botanical Beach.
 ?? DESTINATIO­N BC ?? Tumbler Ridge is home of to a UNESCO Global Geopark.
DESTINATIO­N BC Tumbler Ridge is home of to a UNESCO Global Geopark.

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