FROM RUSSIA WITH LOVE
World Cup experience wows reader
It was destined to fail. A rogue state awarded soccer’s biggest tournament, the World Cup, under shady circumstances. There was no way Russia 2018 would be a success. Turns out we were wrong, mostly.
The World Cup, to date, has been a smashing success. I spent the first two weeks there, following Iran around their group stage games against Morocco, Spain, and Portugal. Two of the stadiums I visited, St. Petersburg and Saransk, were built specifically for this occasion. The latter being a town in the middle of nowhere, with little to no accommodation to speak of. It’s a hallmark of recent World Cups: new stadiums built, with questionable use for afterward.
The people were friendlier than ever. Russians anywhere you turned would ask your opinion of their country, their people, ever so aware of how the world views their government. They were quick to point out that our government is not us. It’s easy to forget.
St. Petersburg was a lovely city, similar to many other European cities like Amsterdam or Paris, with canals running through the core, and tasteful architecture from a distant past. It’s so far north, that you often lose track of time. The sun doesn’t set until 10:30 p.m., and rises again around 2 a.m.; dark curtains are a must. The food is westernized, burgers, pasta, and pizza, on almost every menu. A thriving beer culture has emerged, even though some bars ran out; they didn’t think soccer fans would consume this much.
Moscow was busy, which you would expect a capital city to be like, constantly moving and bustling. The throes of South American soccer fans changes things a bit, chanting late into the night. The buildings are equally stunning in the city, a relic of a past age. The streets wide as can be, curious at first, but then you realize why: tanks used to roam these streets often.
There was much made about whether the country could handle the thousands of screaming soccer fans. But they seemed up to the challenge; volunteers everywhere to point stumbling tourists the right way. Signs in English at every turn. Free subway rides on match days. Free trains to cities for travelling fans. Every turn you saw uniformed men, state police or army, I’m not sure. One thing they were missing: guns. Hidden? I don’t know, I didn’t care to ask.
The soccer was fantastic, one of the most exciting World Cup in memory. It’s not over yet, and it continues to amaze. One thing that’s missing: Europeans. At our games against Spain and Portugal, Iranians outnumbered both 5 to 1, maybe more. Even in knockout round games, take Colombia vs. England, the crowd was 80 per cent Colombian. Maybe that will change as Europeans progress? Who knows? It seems the stigma of Russia, and the videos of hooligans, convinced many to stay home.
The experience itself is oncein-a-lifetime. If you’re able, do it. When it comes to North America in eight years, it’ll likely be the biggest party yet.