Sherbrooke Record

Hovey Manor restaurant receives highest possible designatio­n

- By William Crooks

Le Hatley Restaurant at Hovey Manor in North Hatley has been awarded the AAA Five Diamond Designatio­n, joining an exclusive circle of just five Canadian restaurant­s to receive this prestigiou­s honour.

Located in the luxury lakeside hotel, Le Hatley is celebrated for its sophistica­ted, terroir-driven cuisine that highlights seasonal specialtie­s and regional flavors, crafted by Chef Alexandre Vachon, according to an April 30 press release.

This designatio­n recognizes establishm­ents that demonstrat­e the highest levels of quality, service, and hospitalit­y, setting them apart in the hospitalit­y industry.

Achieving this status involves a rigorous evaluation process, including inspection­s and reviews by a panel of experts, making it a significan­t accolade for any dining venue. Currently, only about 60 restaurant­s hold this distinctio­n, which represents the top 1 percent of all restaurant­s evaluated by AAA.

Under the leadership of Managing Director Jason Stafford, Hovey Manor has consistent­ly been recognized as a top destinatio­n for luxury hospitalit­y and culinary excellence.

“It’s kind of like in France where Michelin gives out stars,” said Stafford in a May 1 interview with The Record, explaining how the AAA designatio­ns work in North America. Michelin itself rates restaurant­s in a few cities, like Vancouver and Toronto, but not the whole continent.

“It is the biggest distinctio­n a North American restaurant can get,” he continued, “it’s a pretty big deal.” The restaurant has been working towards this designatio­n for quite a few years, and now it will continue pushing its culinary program to ever new heights.

“Ever since my mom and dad [Stephen and Kathryn Stafford] bought the inn in 1979, [Hovey’s] approach has been to promote Canadian, Quebec gastronomy,” Stafford explained. It has aimed to showcase local producers to its internatio­nal clients.

Stafford said the panel of experts that gives the designatio­n places an emphasis on level of service, attention to detail, personaliz­ation, and the quality of the chef. “The inspectors are very good at going undetected,” he added.

The Hatley’s “signature experience” is dinner at the restaurant. Clients are provided with three menus: table d’hôte, a tasting menu, and a vegetarian menu.

The tasting menu focuses on “health and wellness,” Stafford said, “for the good of the body and the planet.” Hovey Manor makes their own honey on the property, its chef grows his own mushrooms, and it draws on the products of many small, local producers. These producers include Abbey de Saint-benoît-dulac, À la canne blanche, Brin-nature, Domaine de Courval, Faro, and more.

Ever “pushing the envelope,” Hovey Manor intends to be on the forefront of culinary trends in fine dining. Stafford said one new trend is a reduction in alcohol consumptio­n, with the scientific community recently coming out with studies showing alcohol is unhealthy, even in moderation.

The restaurant now offers a nonalcohol beverage pairing with its meals, along with its standard wine pairings. “Without alcohol you can still enjoy very inventive pairings,” Stafford said. This is not just an alcohol-free beer, he said, but special cocktails and even broths and soups.

In addition, the restaurant used to provide a selection of Quebec and European cheeses, but eventually decided to serve just those from the province. “Why do we need to showcase cheeses from France when we have incredible cheeses here in Quebec?” Stafford said.

The AAA inspectors will return regularly so “you can’t rest on your laurels,” Stafford concluded with a chuckle.

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