UNDERAPPRECIATED CHENIN BLANC PAIRS WONDERFULLY WITH SEAFOOD
A grape that gets little respect and deserves better is Chenin Blanc.
Historians seduced by romance consider it one of the oldest plantings in France, dating back to about 800 in the Loire. Enologically, nothing is certain before 1100, but it is an old grape, a sibling of Sauvignon Blanc (and therefore the aunt of Cabernet Sauvignon.) What makes it interesting is not history, but versatility.
You can vinify the grape in pretty much any style you like, from ultra sweet dessert wines, to dry sparkling wine. All of these styles are made in Saumur and Vouvray in the Loire to this day. Lately, the dry style that is gaining some traction both in the Loire and all over the world including Canada, although this surprised me. It’s not a grape that weathers spring frosts well, and this is, after all, Canada.
Be that as it may, Quails’ Gate has been making a dry Chenin Blanc for a while now, mostly from their Osoyoos vineyards, I think. The wine is truly dry (1 g/L residual sugar). If you like seafood you really need to take it for a spin.
It is very pale in colour. The bouquet is classic Chenin with straw, citrus, and apple. The palate is surprisingly sophisticated. Beautifully balanced acidity, more weight than I expected with a nice mid-palate texture, and a mineral finish. This wine is made for fresh seafood — oysters, shrimp, sushi. I had it with grilled trout and it was great.
The South Africans have been growing Chenin forever. For a long time they called it Steen, and you can still find the occasional bottle with that label. KWV is a large vintner there and I picked up an expensive version from Co-Op, The Mentors Chenin Blanc. This is decidedly different from the Quails’ Gate version.
The colour is quite dark, Chablis yellow, almost amber. As you might expect from the colour, the wine has spent some time in the barrel. Whereas Quails’ Gate only had 20 per cent of the wine in oak, the remainder in stainless, The Mentors did the reverse ratio – 80 per cent barrel fermented. There is also significant time on the lees.
The net result is a really fine
wine. The bouquet is floral with apricot and citrus. The palate is creamy with very nice weight and a clean finish. You could pair this with much richer dishes involving cream sauces even though the total acidity is slightly higher than the Quails’ Gate. Jancis Robinson is a fan and for good reason. If you like real white wine, you need to try this one.
If you want to get back to the source, Co-Op sells a Saumur, one of the two regions famous for the quality of their Chenin Blanc. This version is slightly darker than the Quails’ Gate but lighter than The Mentors, indicating some time in oak, probably 50 per cent or so.
The bouquet is significantly more mineral than the other two, with some herb and grass notes with the fruit. The palate again has some heft to it. And as you’d expect from the nose, a mineral finish. It is sort of a mid-point between the other two palates, should you find one or the other or both too strong.
By the way, the French adore wines like this with shellfish or goat cheese. If you’re a fan of either, this is a nice pairing.
WINE OF THE WEEK
The Mentors Chenin Blanc 2014 $30
Other choices:
Quails’ Gate Chenin Blanc 2016 $20
Reserve des Vignerons Saumur 2015 $25
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