TIME FOR A CHANGE

Oil and filter tips for DIYers

Car owners who change their own engine oil and filter often talk of a sense of satisfaction, pride and even independence after.

Here are some tips to keep in mind if you go the do-it-yourself route.

Set the stage: If you’ve never changed an engine filter and oil before, you need to check your proposed working area. It needs to be a relatively flat and solid surface. You need to have easy, wide access around the entire vehicle. If you live in an urban area and your only choice is your driveway, check local bylaws and regulations.

Get the tools: Check to see if your vehicle’s engine has a top-mounted oil filter. These are becoming common and if you’re lucky enough, you have the alternative of extracting the engine oil from the top rather than raising and securing the front of the car high enough to get underneath. If you have an undercarriage-accessible filter you’ll need to get a good quality floor jack, properly rated axle stands and wheel chocks. You’ll also need a filter wrench; the best type is the socket-wrench mounted cup that fits the bottom of the oil filter. Other needed items are a socket wrench set, oil drain pan/ storage container and funnel.

Do your homework: Take the time to read the owner’s manual and check various online resources for instructions and tips. Find out which filter and oil grade and type are required, and in what quantities. Buying an extra litre of oil is a good idea in case of spillage. .

Be safe: When raising one end of any vehicle on a good level surface, it’s important not to chock or lock the wheels until after the jack stands are in place. This ensures that the angle of the jack’s lifting pad will be optimal for good contact. If you’re working on an asphalt surface, placing the jack stands on a good sturdy wooden panel/plank will keep the stand’s legs from sinking in.

While it’s a good idea to warm up the engine prior to draining the oil (to get more of the old oil out), you don’t want to risk any burns to your skin. Don’t run the engine for more than 10 or 15 minutes and let it cool down for five minutes or so before testing the oil temperature.

If your vehicle’s filter is anywhere near exhaust components, it can be hotter than the oil and can also burn you if you’re not wearing protective gloves and/or long sleeves. Generally allow for a twofoot spray from the oil pan’s drain hole. The flow will drop off quickly to a near vertical stream.

When removing a spin-on metal-cased oil filter, check to make sure its large flexible sealing ring comes off with it. If it sticks to the engine, you’ll end up with a nasty leak when you install the new filter. When removing the filter, remember it is full of oil as well. Keep it upright with the open end up.

After properly installing and tightening the oil filter and drain plug (check your owner’s or shop manual for tightening instructions), leave the vehicle raised and add all but a half-litre or so of the correct amount of oil. Then reinstall the fill cap and start the engine for a half-minute to circulate the oil before shutting it off and getting back down below to check for leaks. Only set the oil at the correct level after lowering the vehicle to get a proper reading on the dipstick.

Up to a half-litre of oil can remain in the upper passages for minutes after shutting down the engine and it can’t be measured until it runs down into the pan.