Have a delicious al fresco summer with these tips for pairing Bourgogne wines with food
Bourgogne has been producing wine since before the second century, and its renowned vineyards grow two of the world’s best-known grape varieties – Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Wines from this region are steeped in tradition and cachet.
A PASSION FOR DISCOVERING AND ENJOYING WINE
At Véronique Rivest’s Gatineau, Quebec wine bar Soif, the motto is ‘Wine without food is just sad’. As owner and award-winning sommelier, Rivest enjoys introducing customers to delicious Bourgogne wines. She also teaches people how to pair wines with the foods they love, whether it’s a backyard barbecue, summer salad or a picnic lunch of baguette, cheese and charcuterie.
“Food and wine pairings are all about how foods are going to make the wine change, and certain elements in the wine are much more reactive than others,” explains Rivest.
She says that while there are no iron-clad rules, it’s important to select a bottle you want to drink by itself, rather than hoping the food will improve a wine you don’t enjoy. The more exuberant the wine is and the higher its alcohol content, the more simple your food choices must be.
“Bourgogne wines are extremely food-friendly because there’s always a certain restraint and elegance to them; they’re more versatile at the table,” says Rivest.
Authentic French wines are always stamped with an Appellation d’origine Contrôlée (AOC) as proof of rigorous production standards. Each of the 84 AOCS from Bourgogne has specific characteristics related to where and how the grapes were grown. Some plots near the most prestigious vineyards in the region make up a special category: Régionale appellations plus a geographical denomination.
These wines offer high quality at affordable price points.
“The beauty of the Bourgogne and Mâcon Régionale appellations plus a geographical designation is they
allow you to go a step higher in quality to start having that notion of terroir for that specific place at a very affordable price.”
Because of how climates are evolving, she adds, lesser known appellations from Bourgogne now have a much better guarantee of ripening and getting great grapes every year.
“Two of the ones we serve the most at the wine bar are the Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune and Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits,” says Rivest. “They’re a bit higher on the slope, west of all the famous wines, so maybe more exposed to the elements. This is where some of the best value wines are today.”
BALANCE THE FLAVOURS OF YOUR FOOD AND WINE
In Bourgogne, wines range from light and crisp to full-bodied, so think about how heavy or rich your food is and balance that with the wine, says Rivest. Wines with lower alcohol content are lighter-bodied and best with simple grilled fish, while heartier food with cream sauces tastes better with a hearty wine.
“In the northern part of Bourgogne, around the Chablis region, the red and white wines tend to be lighter, fresher and crisper than a Côte d’or wine, and then you have wines from further south, all the way to Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnais,” she explains.
“You can serve a white Bourgogne from the north, like a Bourgogne Chitry or a Bourgogne Tonnerre, that are in the region of Auxerre or closer to Chablis. They tend to be really crisp and minerally and they’re wonderful with oysters, seafood platters or gougères – little puff pastries stuffed with
cheese that make great appetizers. These wines are also great with vegetables or fish tartare.”
With a white wine from Côte Chalonnaise or Mâconnais, for example, you can serve much richer dishes such as chicken in a creamy sauce, or cheese platters.
“Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise, which tends to have a rounder, fruitier mouth feel and a creamier texture, also matches well with macaroni and cheese. White Bourgogne wines from the south are great with popcorn, too.”
And recipes made with mushrooms and truffles are delicious with light-bodied reds like Pinot Noir, which is full of savory depth.
“Specifically in Bourgogne, Pinot Noir is not very tannic, so it fits with consumers who want fresher, lighter, more food friendly wines,” she says.
Bourgogne reds are also a great match for vegetables, especially mushrooms and beets.
“Because the reds are more fruit-driven with tart cherry, cranberry and red currant, plus they have higher acidity with lower tannins, they should always be served cooler
– around 14 or 15 degrees,” says Rivest. “They’re perfect with barbecued meats or a charcuterie platter.”
DISCOVER SOME OF THE LESSER-KNOWN BOURGOGNE WINES
At Soif, people are curious and want to try new things. Exploring Bourgogne wines by the glass is a great way to learn about the region’s
different appellations, says Rivest, who especially enjoys digging into the history of a wine, including how and where it’s produced.
“What I like about the Bourgogne or Mâcon plus a geographic denomination, is that notion or snapshot of a place, an expression of terroir – all that history and tradition; there’s always a story behind the names of places,” she explains.
“These wines are easy sells because the price to quality ratio is some of the best you can get.”
BOOSTING WINE CONFIDENCE WITH EDUCATION
Bourgogne wines are extremely food-friendly because there’s always a certain restraint and elegance to them; they’re more versatile at the table.
“Wine merchants and sommeliers love their jobs, and they love talking about wine, so there’s no such thing as a stupid question, so don’t be intimidated,” she says.
“There’s so much variety from the appellations: From the north to the central to the south, your white or red will taste quite different. And because there’s no such thing as a perfect wine and food pairing, I always ask customers what they like to eat, what flavours they enjoy and we’ll go from there. Even
if you tell me you prefer cheese over dessert as a last course, that’s already a big help for me.”
Whatever wine you choose to pair with your summer meals, make sure to enjoy every last drop, advises Rivest.
“The best quality a wine can have is to make you want a second glass, and that’s what these Bourgogne wines have,” she says.
To find out more about Bourgogne wines, visit www.