ENGLISH SUMMARY
Sacria Atelier: A triumph in Italy (pages 12-13)
Azerbaijani brand Sacria Atelier has presented its debut clothing collection Spirit of Sacria in the Italian city of Turin. Representatives of more than 40 countries from Europe, Asia, and Latin America took part in Torino Fashion Week 2023.
“Fashion Week in Italy was the most exciting and unforgettable time in Sacria Atelier’s history. When we received the invitation, we only had a few sketches and dreams of creating our own collection of clothes. In just four months, we managed to do the almost-impossible; we created highquality samples that meet international standards while simultaneously preserving the brand’s DNA. The organizers of the Fashion Week highly appreciated the sketches provided and allowed us to be a part of this bright event,” recalls Sacria Atelier’s cofounder Shamil Aliyev.
According to co-founder and designer Fidan Aliyeva, the Fall/Winter 2023–2024 collection presented at the Fashion Week was created from natural cashmere, wool, tweed, and silk from Sheki. The fabrics featured patterns depicting Azerbaijan’s handicraft heritage. The patterns and designs are borrowed from the ancient art of carpet weaving and each differed depending on the geographical reference of the images. “Each outfit has to be considered thoroughly. We studied the history of the development of Azerbaijani carpet weaving, carpetmaking schools of different regions, and even local poetry. Among other things, we were inspired by the design of medieval national women’s outfits. The 14 looks presented at the show were distinguished by their local identity, peculiarities of ornaments, and original color solutions while at the same time following global trends,” Fidan said. Perhaps this is just part of Sacria Atelier’s DNA. Studying each of the brand’s products, one can notice how skillfully they intertwine the national traditions, history, and cultural versatility of Azerbaijan with the best world fashion trends. It is a synthesis of oriental sensuality and European harmony. It would seem difficult to surprise the Italian audience, but Sacria Atelier managed to do it. The idea of creating a collection in an ethnic style that reflects the uniqueness of the regions of Azerbaijan has resonated in the hearts of Italians. After all, Italy itself consists of 19 regions, and the question of exploring their diversity and reflecting the uniqueness of each of them through fashion was one of the most discussed issues at Torino Fashion Week. The Spirit of Sacria collection delighted the participants and guests of the Fashion Week, and the creators of the brand unexpectedly won the Best Rising Talent Award 2023.
Chanel Premiere: A lesson in style (pages 32-33)
In the CHANEL watchmaking universe, the Première watch has been a shining star since 1987. Its case takes on the octagonal shape of the stopper of the
N°5 perfume bottle and is dressed in black lacquer, with the interlaced leather and chain strap of the iconic quilted bag for its bracelet. The Première surprised the watchmaking world, which until then had been governed by masculine styles. The watch was uniquely contemporary, without a doubt. Thirty-five years after its creation, this authentic lesson in style now makes its reappearance in its original version, styled in its most cherished quality: timeless appeal.
The first CHANEL watchmaking creation, the Première watch, was conceived in 1987 by Jacques Helleu, Artistic Director at CHANEL, who joined the Maison thirty years earlier to take care of “problems of taste.” At the time, this remarkable man, who has devoted himself to CHANEL since the age of 18, was still humorously wondering “what it was all about,” even as the success of the Première watch confirmed his tenacious talents. “I fought to make a design that was strong, that was unique, that – more than just launching a single collection – would become an eternal reference,” declared the man who ushered CHANEL into the world of watchmaking.
For Arnaud Chastaingt, Director of the Watchmaking Creation Studio, the Première embodies the spirit of CHANEL watchmaking. “The Première was the first page in our watchmaking history. It was born out of an absolute freedom of creation, and it initiated a vision: the ‘Allure of Time’ as measured by CHANEL. In 2022, I wanted the Première to find its place again and to put it at the heart of our collection. This creation is our DNA and a CHANEL code through and through. Far more than a watch, the Première is a lesson in style.”
If the Première made a remarkable entrance, this was first and foremost because it freed itself from masculine standards to appear – fitted or as a bracelet – on the wrists of women. For the first time, a watch intended for women was not a scaled-down version of a men’s watch, but an elegantly audacious creation wholly dedicated to them. Since 1987, the spirit of the Première has lived on as an ode to the freedom of every woman who lives in the present and seizes the moment.
Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week is not just about fashion. After all, the most famous jewelry houses organize presentations of their collections of high jewelry pieces right in frames for Fashion Week. This summer was no exception. And once again, we are going on a journey to be among the first to get acquainted with the brilliant works of the world’s most skillful jewelers of the world. Fittingly, the name of this year’s collection by Cartier, which we were the first to see, is Le Voyage Recommencé (The Journey Begins Again).
To be quite precise, Cartier presented the second chapter of this year’s haute jewelry collection in Paris at the beginning of July. The presentation of the first part took place on May 24 in Florence. This time, the main venue was the Ritz Paris Hotel, located on Place Vendôme. This is where the media, guests, and friends of the House from all over the world, including Azerbaijan, gathered together.
Cartier’s style, the breadth of its range, and its capacity for constant renewal are all qualities that were largely instilled by one exceptional person.
At the beginning of the 20th century, Louis Cartier reaffirmed the desire for modernity in the House founded by his grandfather. Combining a desire to transcend old forms with an abiding taste for classicism, he pioneered concepts such as the purity and clarity of jewelry design. In this subtle union, which may seem paradoxical at first glance, still lies the unique personality of this jeweler. Since then, this principle has fueled the eternal endeavor to evolve the Maison, which, like Louis, is constantly renewed thanks to different sources of inspiration. And the Le Voyage Recommencé collection embodies all of this, presenting new landscapes discovered through an ambitious, free exploration of the House’s main creative compass.
The designers have used all their imagination and talent to reinterpret the lines of design created by Louis Cartier in his quest for modernity.
They created grandiose volumes, enhancing the dazzling effect of the three-dimensional jewels that Jeanne Toussaint loved so much, creating an architecture of unknown worlds and harnessing the sensuality of emotion and the richness of the gifts of flora and fauna.
Arabian niche perfume brand Widian is an extremely rare case where its
creator’s life’s work found him on its own, giving him the desire to create a unique and one-of-a-kind product that grows into a global business, represented in more than 40 countries, including the Middle East and Africa, Europe, the USA, and CIS regions. This summer, the brand’s founder Ali Aljaberi visited Baku and held a number of events here. We met him in the walls of the ParfumCity niche and selective perfumery shop, where the brand is successfully represented, and talked about incredible niche fragrances that skillfully combine the traditions of French perfumery with the hidden secrets of the Arabian Peninsula.
The M.O.S.T.: Oriental perfumery is a completely different world with its own laws, its own bestsellers, even its own way of applying fragrances. How did you manage to create a perfume brand that is absolutely oriental in its essence but loved by the whole world?
Ali: In 22010, at my previous job as an engineer, I was sent on a four-month business trip to Milan. Whilst living in the Italian fashion capital, I thought about the power of the brands around me. I thought about why they can be represented not only here but also in Dubai, yet there is no reverse example of any Arabian brand that could become popular in Milan and in the West in general? I have also noticed that most, if not all, of these brands have oriental fragrances in their product ranges.
And, to be quite frank, those of us from Oriental countries don’t really like most of these fragrances, as they are not authentic at all. It was probably at that moment that I got the idea to show the world what real oriental perfumery is. After all, most of the world’s major manufacturers do not even know that the tastes of consumers living in different countries of the Middle East differ from each other. For example, the people of Abu Dhabi, Dubai, and the Emirates in general like sweet floral flavors, while the people of Saudi Arabia prefer more masculine notes, such as vetiver. If you go to Syria or Jordan, you will find that the tastes of the inhabitants of these countries are strikingly different from all of the above.
Thus, I set out to present the universe of oriental fragrances to the world so that the West would realize that Arabic perfumery is not what it is used to and certainly not what it expects.
The M.O.S.T.: What are the ingredients of authentic Arabic fragrances?
Ali: If I ask you about the most popular notes of oriental fragrances, you will probably list oud, amber, sandalwood... But none of these ingredients are indigenous to the Arabic world. Oud and sandalwood, for example, come from the rainforests of Southeast Asia and India. These ingredients travelled from Asia to Europe via the Middle East. That is why our region has come to be associated with them. If we are talking about the original ingredients of the Middle East, one of them is Taif rose. This ingredient is at the heart of our Widian Rose Arabia Taifi fragrance, which we created in 2019. The Taif rose is one of the most unique and rare varieties of roses, as it grows on top of the mountains of only one city in the world – Taif, located in Saudi Arabia.
In the heart of Baku, the 2023 International Piano Festival has concluded its second spectacular year, bringing together diverse artists from across the globe. Behind this extraordinary event stands Shahin Novrasli, the festival's founder and renowned jazz musician. In an exclusive interview, we discuss his dual identity as both performer and organizer, shedding light on the bridges he builds between different musical worlds. Joining us is the internationally acclaimed pianist Hélène Mercier, who gave her debut performance in Azerbaijan during the festival. We explore her memorable collaboration with Azerbaijani-born, internationally known cellist Mstislav Rostropovich and her unique perspective on the world of classical music. The conversation takes a fascinating turn when we discuss the role of work in the lives of artists, uncover the influence of family and the delicate balance between artistic pursuits and familial responsibilities, and discuss definitions of happiness, which extend far beyond the spotlight and applause.
The M.O.S.T.: The 2023 Baku International Piano Festival brought together amazing artists in different styles from different countries. What were your priorities while choosing performers for this wonderful event?
Shahin: As the Founder of the Baku International Piano Festival, I'm proud and honored that we could hold it for the second year in a row. The priority while choosing the artists for the Festival was finding artists who were professional and spectacular.
The M.O.S.T.: You are worldrenowned as a jazz musician.
Now, you also act as a manager, organizing different international events like the Baku International Piano Festival. Which role do you like most?
Shahin: They are totally different but very close at the same time, because both are based on culture. I am very glad that I have a chance to invite many great artists from around the whole world to Azerbaijan, building a bridge between cultures.
The M.O.S.T.: This summer, you
visited Azerbaijan for the first time and had your first concert in Azerbaijan as part of the Baku International Piano Festival. What did you expect before the visit and were those expectations met?
Hélène: I didn’t have any special expectations concerning Azerbaijan since I did not know about your country except from what Mstislav Rostropovich had told me at the beginning of the year 2000. My main excitement was to collaborate and perform with Shahin Novrasli, whom I admire very much.
The M.O.S.T.: What did Mstislav Rostropovich tell you about our country?
Hélène: Rostropovich was not a man of many words (at least in English…), but, while he spoke about Baku, he kissed his hands frenetically. He continually insisted on bringing me to Baku, saying that the future resided in Azerbaijan!
Swiss hospitality in the heart of Dubai (pages 112-115)
Swissotel Al Murooj is located in the heart of Dubai, directly opposite one of the largest malls in the world, The Dubai Mall, and the iconic Burj Khalifa, and within a few minutes’ drive to Dubai International Financial Centre and World Trade Centre with its many exhibition halls. Positioned in Dubai’s favored destination for both business and leisure, this location opens a door to a world of ease, luxury, and Swiss hospitality.
When contemporary and arabic flair meet The 528 elegantly appointed guest rooms, suites and apartments have refined designs and are furnished with luxurious amenities. Lush gardens or city views add a picturesque touch to the overall guest experience. Discerning business and leisure travelers can enjoy exclusive services, while executive rooms and the Swiss Executive Club lounge provide additional luxury and exclusivity.
Finest f lavours
Each restaurant at Swissotel Al Murooj Dubai boasts its own unique theme and unrivaled cuisine for every palate and allows discovering a wealth of dining with plenty of personality.
The hotel’s 5 F&B outlets include Pergolas, its all-day dining restaurant serving a wide choice of international dishes at a daily buffet service for breakfast, lunch and dinner, featuring indoor and outdoor seating area overlooking the lush gardens of Swissotel Al Murooj and Dubai Skyline. Double Decker British-themed pub is packed with character. A collection of London bus and underground memorabilia and a menu brimming with traditional pub favourites and British hops has long been a hit with Dubai residents in search of a taste of home.
Anees is the natural option for those enjoying leisure time by the hotel’s pool with the menu full of favourite bites, sandwiches, salads and daily specials, making this a favourite pool bar in Dubai. For daily escape for coffee and snacks Circle or Ojos café will be the best spot.
Your perfect retreat
The hotel guests can relax and rejuvenate at Swissotel Spa & Sport, keep up with their fitness regime at a world-class gym or chill out at an outdoor swimming pool area, steam, sauna, Jacuzzi and tennis court. Meanwhile, the hotel’s tranquil spa, which houses 3 treatment rooms with highly trained team of therapists offering a wide selection of treatments revives senses.
Sophisticated spaces
Swissotel Al Murooj offers a vibrant place for any business or social event that can successfully host business events, meetings, and other celebrations.
Each of the 6 elegant meeting and event spaces features state-of-the-art audiovisual technology, and the hotel’s expert events team are specialists in delivering precision and flexibility.
Fill you up! Apply it! Pass it on! (pages
102-106)
The national motif of Gunay Zebic’s works has become a symbol of love and respect for her roots. Her paintings are a vivid embodiment of the idea that art should be accessible to everyone. The interweaving of contrasting colors of traditions and customs are reflected in her canvases, as is the synthesis of cultural heritage and architectural images of Azerbaijan. That is why her works of art evoke constant reminiscences...
The M.O.S.T.: You studied to be a programmer, but you dedicated yourself to the arts. At what point did you realize that you were not on the right professional path?
Gunay: When we follow the call of our heart, the roads themselves open before us; on the way, we meet the necessary people who can accompany our growth and formation. As a child, I was fond of painting, so years later, I decided to delve into this field again. At first, I painted copies, created miniatures, and studied the life and work of many masters of art. Inspired by European artists, I modernized my approach to creating miniatures. Namely, I worked on the technique of drawing and started to paint more voluminous figures. At that time, I met a wonderful person, Sara Nazirova. She appreciated my works and decided to introduce me to the Honoured Artist of Azerbaijan, Beyim Hajizade, who later became my teacher. Lessons with Beyim-khanum gave me a valuable supply of knowledge – from the art of graphics and painting to the life and work of art critics. In addition, I enriched my artistic imagination through travelling.