FORD RACING PUMA
MODIFYING
With all the ingredients of a homologation special, the standard Racing Puma sits precisely on road or track. And even though the 1.7-litre powerplant was uprated from new, the FRP’s chassis can easily handle more than the 152bhp its Zetec SE kicks out.
So swap the stock exhaust for a stainless system with manifold and decat, then add an enlarged throttle body for improved mid-range grunt. With high-lift cams, vernier exhaust pulley and a remap you’ll see 170bhp, while 185bhp is possible from a flowed/ported cylinder head, 330cc injectors and remap. Better still, a forged bottom end with high- compression pistons, big-valve head and throttle bodies will produce more than 200bhp.
Forced induction is the easier option, and 360bhp is achievable with a GT28 turbo kit, or around 220bhp on stock internals and T25.
Ideally, you’ll bag an FRP with the optional limited-slip differential but, if not, a S2 RS Turbo’s diff means lift- off oversteer aplenty. Better still, invest in an ATB. And although the standard clutch can cope with track days, an upgraded version will be required for forced induction.
On track, you’ll want to drop the suspension from its lofty rally settings, so go for a set of high- end coilovers. Polyurethane bushes will tighten the chassis, and 40mm rear spacers will aid stability and braking ability.
Talking of which, the original Alcon four-pot front calipers and 295mm discs are designed for motorsport, but their lack of dust seals mean they become a pain if you’re using them on the road as well. Mk1 Focus RS Brembos, 330mm discs and adaptors are a simple solution, and they’ll fit happily behind the 17in Speedlines. Lightweight track wheels help the handling but 18in rims numb the experience.
For the ultimate, there’s a wealth of competition components available for the F2 Puma Kit Car – but you’re better off fitting these to bare shell not a real FRP.