IT’S A BARGAIN… OR IS IT?

Think you have found a cut-price purchase? You might have, but beware before you buy because there are a few pitfalls that need avoiding…

We’ve all been there… scrolling through a whole lot of adverts and finding that bike you’ve always lusted after at a price you can afford. Better still, one that’s in the same garish colours that made it an icon back when fluorescent pink and burn-your–retina-green leathers were must-have accessories. We’re not here to judge, but we are here to point out a few essential rules before you depart with your hard-earned cash on what you would consider a bargain buy. Why? Because it’s so easy to fall into any number of traps that’ll transform your dream purchase into a never-ending nightmare. We wouldn’t wish that on anyone – well, maybe a few people… but certainly not you guys. So have a good read of our top 10 buying tips and go into your next purchase knowing it really is the bike you want to own.

Too good to be true? 1 It probably is.

If a project is priced at what appears well below market value, then alarm bells should start to ring. More often than not the reason something is very cheap is that it is stolen. Never, ever, buy a vehicle under the promise ‘the logbook is in the post’ or ‘I’m selling it for a mate, I’ll get him to forward the V5 on to you.’ If there is no V5 you can check the engine and frame numbers with your local police force against a national list of stolen bikes, which is worth doing as the Police do occasionally do spot checks at trackdays or race meets. If you are in possession of a dodgy bike, at best it will be taken off you, at worst you could end up facing a charge of receiving stolen goods.

2 Check the numbers add up

Even if the engine and frame are separate, always check their identification numbers to ensure they haven’t been tampered with. It’s not uncommon for a project bike to have a different engine to the one listed in the logbook as many people forget to update this, but they should have proof of where the motor came from. Legitimate scrap yards will keep records to prove the motor is from a written off and not a stolen bike. Follow the paper trail or you may end up in trouble with plod…

3 Sensors make sense

When you buy a project, it is all too easy to look at the bigger picture and forget the small details. A modern motor has a cam sensor, gearbox sensor, neutral sensor/ switch and an airbox sensor, as well as other various electrical components that are all surprisingly costly to buy both new and second hand. A cam sensor, for example, can be upwards of £150 new and over £80 used. It doesn’t take long for a few missing sensors to make a big dent in your budget. And if the bike has an immobilisor (most modern bikes will) ensure you get the corresponding key or it will never start!

4 What constitutes a motor?

If you buy a rolling chassis with the idea of sticking a used motor in it, be very cautious about what you buy. Often there are variances between generations of bike and what will fit one year of chassis won’t go into a slightly modified or upgraded model. But also be aware of what you are buying. A ‘complete’ motor from a scrap yard means complete in the sense that it has a gearbox, etc. However, they will remove anything they possibly can and that means you need to buy the sensors, starter motor, water pump, coolant hoses, etc., separately, which is remarkably expensive once you add up the final bill. Always ask what is included with the engine before you buy.

5 How much work is there?

Projects by their very nature will take up a lot of your time, so always think about the reality of what you are about to purchase. If it is a box of rusty parts then you will have hours of cleaning and degreasing, not to mention the cost of repainting, etcetera ahead before you can even think about the fun of reassembly. Are you the kind of person who will run out of steam when a project becomes a chore? If so, buy something that requires less work.

6 Consumables

It’s a small point, but as with the rest of the bike, always factor consumables into your budget. You will inevitably need new brake pads, tyres, a chain and sprockets, battery, oil, coolant, spark plugs, filters, and a million and one small items such as bearings and fasteners along the way.

7 Buy a workshop manual!

Haynes manuals have their place, but when it comes to major projects they lack the depth of information required, which is where you need a workshop manual. Available from loads of sites as a pdf download, workshop manuals contain information such as wiring loom and cable routing, which should avoid the need for you to completely strip your bike down again because the revs rise whenever you turn the bars right… A cheap PC is also a great tool for project work, allowing you to access the internet for help and advice, alongside a digital camera (or smartphone) so you can keep a visual record of anything you disassemble.

8 It’s only money, so have fun!

Projects are money pits, that’s the reality. But it isn’t so much about the final result, but the road you take to get there that is the fun part. Enjoy the ride, forget about logging expenses on a spreadsheet, and never tell your other half exactly how much you are spending…

9 What have I got?

Spend a decent amount of time cataloging in your head what you have in front of you and what is missing before handing over any cash. Items such as a full fairing will be at best £250; a used rear wheel is £100; used front wheels are very hard to locate for some bikes as this is what gets damaged in an accident; even worn discs are £50 each plus their fasteners. You can easily spend upwards of £400 on a complete front wheel, which is a huge chunk of a small project’s budget.

10 Damaged goods

Always check over major structural items (frame, wheels, swingarm, forks. etcetera) for damage, as these are the costly parts that will stop a project in its tracks. Look for dings on the wheel rims and see if they are holding air; inspect the forks for straightness; check the swingarm for scrapes; and see if the subframe is sitting true on the frame. If not, the chances are that the bike has had a major shunt. Do you really want a trackday bike that only likes to turn left? Well, unless it is a flat tracker…