FOUR HOURS IN GLASGOW

Rose Dykins discovers Victorian burial sites and historic chip shops on a tour of the Scottish city

Rose Dykins explores the historic heart of Scotland’s second-largest city

EAST END Begin your tour just outside the city centre, at medieval clock tower Tolbooth Steeple. Walk eastwards on Gallowgate past Glasgow’s Oldest Chippie (established in 1884) at number 161 – where you can pick up a deep-fried Mars bar – and a Celtic FC paraphernalia store that blares Irish folk music. This part of town is gritty, and a far cry from the historical tenement buildings of the centre, but it gives you a taste of the city’s authentic character.

At 244 Gallowgate is the Barrowland Ballroom, with its iconic neon sign fringed with stars. Originally opened in 1934, it was severely damaged by a fire in 1958 before reopening in 1960, becoming the city’s premier music venue, hosting everyone from Bob Dylan and David Bowie to Oasis and the Proclaimers. Its floor is said to be sprung on thousands of tennis balls cut in half to cushion the heels of twirling dancers – now a great surface for impassioned audiences to jump up and down on. Beside Barrowland is the arched gateway to Barras market, which takes place on weekends from 10am to 5pm. Wares include vinyl records and bric-a-brac.

GLASGOW NECROPOLIS Head back to Tolbooth Steeple and brace yourself for a steep, ten-minute walk up the High Street. Turn right on to John Knox Street, and stroll a short way down until you reach the cast-iron gates of the city’s Victorian burial ground. Follow the winding path to the top of the grassy mound, stopping to admire the magnificent graves of Glasgow’s most distinguished 19th century citizens. The towering obelisks, giant stone angels and mausoleums reflect the social standing of those in the ground below, particularly the merchants who were revered at a time when Glasgow was a global centre of trade, the Second City of the British Empire.

At the top of the pile is the John Knox monument – an 18-metre-tall sandstone column topped off with a statue of the Protestant leader clutching a bible. Keep your eye out for the resting place of Andrew McCall – though little is known about him, his grave is marked with a Celtic cross designed by Scottish architect and designer Charles Rennie Mackintosh (more on him later). Open daily from 7am until dusk.

www.glasgownecropolis.org

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